This is an excellent Teton adventure climb, deep in the backcountry. Similar in overall difficulty to the Owen-Spaulding on the GT. The climb and exposure is higher quality than the OS.

Climb on or just south of the crest to Wister's lower, west summit. Top out the west summit, pass the middle one on the north, and reach the highest, east summit via a chimney just S of the low point between the middle and east summits. Reverse the route via down climbing and maybe one rappel (west of the west summit) or descend via the east ridge.

West Ridge

Northeast Couloir to East Ridge

Northwest Couloir

Northwest Arete

200 feet of snow to a overhang with a cave.

pass the overhang to the left with 5.7 moves and some aid thrown in.

~700 feet of snow and sometimes ice brings you to a split in the couloir

Take the narrow couloir and work right gaining the West ridge

Not only the easiest and most straightforward route to the summit, but, the most fun.

A good combination of long snow slopes to great, easy rock climbing, the NE Ridge to East Ridge, in the right conditions, is a superb day in the mountains in a less visited location.

From the outlet of Lake Taminah, head around then follow lower angle slopes to gradually steepening terrain.  Gaining the col atop the final couloir, follow the southern side of the sometimes slabby east face/ridge to the summit.  The rock on the east ridge has some great stretches of mostly compact and secure climbing.

To descend, reverse the route.

When the couloir is in good nick, an ice ax and likely crampons will be most prudent.  While the final east ridge is not difficult, it is exposed and the less savvy may want a rope for confidence.

Most competent climbers would easily solo this route.

An interesting climb with many options and opportunities for adventure.  I will describe the 12 pitches at around 5.10 that we found, refer to the "Teton Range" bible, or SP for other descriptions.

P1 5.9

Climb orangish broken up rock through a corner. Odd moves, lots of lichen.

P2 5.8

Right trending up a dirty chimney.  At times chimney turns to left facing OW crack and back to chimney.

P3-4 5.7

Right up easier ground with interspersed grass ending at a huge gendarme.

P5 5.8

Follow a crack for about 50 feet to the base of a chimney.

P6 5.7

Climb left into a big clean chimney. Exit via the keyhole on the right then move up and left. Get in a piece early and cross exposed low angle slab covered with lichen (5.6 - 5.7)

P7 5.6 4th

Climb up to the base of another huge pseudotower

P8 5.7 - 5.10

Traverse (30 - 50 feet) right on very exposed ledge.  I took the ledge which had poor rock, but could be protected.  I did not see pro on the clean sloped upper ledge although it was more aesthetic.

I climbed the first crack that looked passable (~5.10) apparently it gets easier further right as the rock quality depreciates. I had rope drag concerns as well.

P9 5.8

Climb 50 feet to the wall.

NOTE: This is where things get interesting.  I will describe our route which was phenomenal, excellent rock, amazing exposure great moves, but had a lot of loose blacks.  The books describes a 5.7 mantle to the left and easy terrain right.

Work the right side of the wall to a good belay.

P10 5.8

Climb a wide crack to a ledge.

Traverse 30 feet right overcoming the steep wall via a crack with a non-inspiring triangle block.  Continue up to a belay below a exposed vertical wall on your right

P11 5.9

Climb 100 feet up trending right, eventually coming to a vertical crack system in an exposed left facing corner of pink rock.  Belay on a small exposed ledge with loose rock on your left.

P12 5.7

Climb left of the belay for three moderate moves before easy terrain is reached.  Be careful of the mouse trap supporting the large block above the belayer, right of the belay.

Pitch 11 and 12 could be linked with caution.  I was out of gear and did not want to knock any loose rocks down on the belayer or deal with the rope drag.

Easier 4th class terrain gets you to the base of the west summit. Climb the West Ridge or forgo the summit.

We descended avoiding technical terrain by heading south off the ridge working down the Veiled Wister saddle, when possible crossing back into the North fork toward Snowdrift Lake.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mount Wister