A fun and well-protected crack leading up to a tree anchor (two cords + two quicklinks as of 8/9/2021). Follow the hand-sized crack up into a left-facing corner with good protection along the way. A short chimney section up top will represent the crux for many. The crack will lead you directly to a tree with the anchor. If placing a top rope on Kennel Boy (5.10a just to the left of Rock Garden), there is an obvious bolt climber's left just before the end of Rock Garden that can be easily clipped on the way down and offers an easy directional. A 60M rope is sufficient length for climbs off this anchor.

Rock Garden

Classic Rock

Rock On

The Sting

Stealing Candy from a Baby

Fore Paws

Flyboy

Punk Rock

When Dad's Run Free

Sub Woofer

Kennel Boy

Putting the Past Away

Incisor Crack

The Bloody Horn

Flake 'n' Bake

Slightly harder variation to Rock Garden.

Start just under the left side of the big roof. Climb up to the roof and make a big reach out from under the roof to a nice hand size crack. Then up to the same anchor of Punk Rock.

Start the same as When Dads Run Free climb up a little then break right on a small rail to a left facing corner. Climb the corner up to an overlap, just before the overlap is the crux short and awkward. Climb over the overlap to the anchor on WDRF.

Climb up to a left facing corner with a few intresting moves. Climb the corner until you can break right fhrough a weekness in the wall on the right. Then a long reach and up to the anchors on Punk Rock.

This route has a relatively short crux section consisting of a few moves along a good horizontal then a big dynamic move up to a good flat jug. After the crux the climbing eases a lot as you climb up to a good ledge then up a nice 5.7 flake to another ledge with a bolted anchor. Good rock and well protected but a bit of a one move wonder. 

Climb a blocky face to get to a comfy little platform at the bottom of an inclined left-facing corner. Layback the crack in the corner (there are also holds on the face to the right), and follow a thin crack traversing right under an overlap (crux). Go up left an easier slab to the anchors.

Climb up the easiest climb on the cliff,placing a ton of gear on your way up. This is a great route for new leaders about half way up you can escape off to the left if you get to scared and walk off or rap off the tree.

A surprisingly nice climb with fun moves on perfect rock. Start by putting  a piece in the small slot above the starting roof. Climb up the corner/arete on the roof's right side to the large ledge above. Then make some unprotected 5.9 face moves up to a fixed pin. A short finger crack above leads to balance moves, a bolt, and the crux. Continue to a tree belay.

Start to the left of the big corner. Climb the face to the left of the big corner to reach a small, left-facing corner below the roof. Move right into the main corner and pull the roof. Continue through ledges and up the thin crack above, making a hard mantle up onto the anchor ledge. 

  NOTE: There were Bats in the crack on 7-21-2012. May want to skip the first finger lock/gear placement in the upper crack to check for these guys.

Without the big, vegetated ledge halfway up, this route might be one of the better lines at Lost Horizon. As it is, this is certainly still a worthwhile route with enjoyable climbing. 

  Start under a 10' high roof below an obvious fingercrack splitting the face above. Pull the roof and enjoy nice finger locking up to the ledge. Climb blocky features off the right side of the ledge to a stance at a steep, wide crack (no wide gear necessary). Pull awkwardly over the steepness onto easy slabby terrain and scramble up to a double-bolt anchor with rap rings. There is also a tree with slings about 20' higher at the top of the cliff if you plan on climbing a route at the upper tier.

Climb up to the larges part of the roof with a small horn on it. Climb through the roof. If you have a long reach by pass the horn it will set you up better to come over the roof. Themyou have two choices finish up Kennel Boy or a easier path to the anchor of Punk Rock.

Use a flake to pull over the low roof. Make a few moves up the slab, clip a bolt, and then continue up the slab and the difficulty quickly eases. Scramble up easy ground, aiming for the flaring crack above. Awkwardly pull through this (crux, I thought) and then head left to the anchor for Incisor Crack.

This is a small but very nice little cliff located above and to the left of Sundown's Main Cliff. It hosts a variety of route from 5.4 to 5.11+ and is almost never crowded. It gets a mix of sun and shade and can be a little bit windier than the Main Cliff. The rock quality is excellent although some areas may see seepage.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lost Horizon