This route is on the right side of Higher Security Risk, about a minute uphill from Upper Security Risk. It's the thin crack that starts at the low point of the wall and angles slightly right. A thin right facing flake angle from the right, meeting the crack half way up.

This is a nice steep "slab" with strenuous moves on positive holds. The hard climbing (10ish) starts right off the ground. There are stemming opportunities to the right depending on your height and flexibility. The crux is at the 4th bolt and was balancy and reachy for me. I had a hard time clipping the last bolt, just after the crux, because I was stressed out and burned out. Actually, it was easy--I grabbed the draw.

Cold Shot

Evolution

Turmoil

Gimme 3 Steps

Evolution, formerly known as "Gimme Back my Bullets" and first TR'd in 1993, starts at the beginning of

Cold Shot

and then follows the sinuous seam crack up the Higher Security face.  It's fairly sustained, with 11a or b cruxes at the 3rd, 4th, and 5th bolts.  Exit the pod at the 5th bolt, angle up the left leaning crack, then hand traverse up a nice rail to the anchor.

There's still some scaly rock in places, but it's cleaning up quickly.  Feels as pumpy and sustained as

Cold Shot

, but it's more technical and perhaps a little steeper.

This route is the furthest bolted line to the right.  The moves become progessively more difficult as you follow a seam before hitting a distinct crux above the 4th bolt.  My buddy broke off about an 8" chunk inside the seam at the crux, but it did not seem to affect the grade at all.  The hold was used as a bump to hit a better edge.

This route is located just left of Cold Shot on Higher Security, up the hill a bit from Crash Test Blondes.  It goes up three distinct tiers or "steps".

Start on the prow at the left edge of the wall, climbing past some small bushes (5.7/5.8) to a ledge.  Follow the obvious thin cracks up to the next ledge (5.10c)... nuts and smaller camming devices can protect this section well.

From this last ledge, clip the bolt out right and move up into the shallow, left-facing corner (crux). A few feet of sustained side-pulling, liebacking, and thin footwork will get you to the second bolt. The climbing is still a bit pumpy from there but eases up considerably.  A small or medium cam in a horizontal can protect the climbing above the last bolt.  Rap about 60 feet to the ground from a 2-bolt anchor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Higher Security Risk