This isn't a great climb, but it is a way up to set up a top rope at the TR anchor.  Another way would be to climb Slick Rock Cracks.

Start by climbing up the large unprotectable flake to a good stance where you can finally protect. There probably should be a bolt along there. Continue to climb under the arch, mainly face climbing, runout at times, to the anchor at the apex. You can lower off with a 70 meter rope but tie a backup knot at the end of the rope and be careful! It is close.

Overarching Concern

Slick Rock Cracks

Under My Skin

Urethra

Holloween Trick

Flight of the Centurion

Osprey Crack

Naptime

Iliac

Crystal Crescent

This was done Halloween 2015 and since it wasn't a treat, it was a trick. It is hard to protect, very easy in most spots with a few 5.5 moves. Not a very good climb.

Start at the same alcove as Flight of the Centurion and step out right on the face and move right, clip one bolt (shared with the route Yap), and head above the large bush. Start in the left crack and move, higher up, to the right one. After the crack ends continue up the flakes then left on the face to the anchors at the apex of the arch. You can lower off on one 70 meter rope but be careful, it is close to using up an entire 70 meter rope. This is the easiest way to get to the anchor to set up a top rope.

A fun face climb that tucks under the massive flake to the left of Urethra. At times you can grab the flake or lean back against it. This made drilling on lead very easy through this section. The climb then leaves the flake, moves out into the open and up water streaks to the ring anchors. It takes two ropes to rap from here, or continue (right) on fun, easy climbing (but no protection) to the uppermost chains. It is a 60 meter pitch and if using a shorter rope you can belay from a ledge at the top of the flake.

This enjoyable face climb goes straight up the middle of one of the main features of the dome. Not-a-penis. At 5.8 there is just enough friction to make it a pleasurable experience and the protection is adequate so you can enjoy the climax of the route without much worry. You can stop at the intermediate rap anchor/belay but if you are having fun it can be pretty darn hard to stop halfway.

A thin finger crack / undercling / lieback leads you around and up this smooth granite block. Features on the face make it easier than it looks. Note that it is difficult to see your placements when leading. Continue on up past flakes and onto the face to the anchor at the apex. Easy to TR from apex anchor (you can lead Slick Rock Cracks to get to anchor).

The first bolt was placed so that you can walk out on a ledge to pre-clip it if you choose. Bring mid-size cams for a crack mid-wall and also for the top flake before the apex anchor. From the top of the block continue on to the apex anchors. You can top rope this with two ropes from the anchor. The difficulty doesn't last long and the crux is between the first and third bolts.

Named after an Osprey that cruised by the dome while the FA team climbed the route. This is a nice, varied route that starts on a face, into a crack, that runs out onto a face, then into a large flake system on the main wall. Start on small easy holds to a bolt (easily visible from the start), then straight up under a small roof and continue straight up into a large crack. The crack leads to an intersection, where you take a left and head up the steepest crack. Bring a thin nut tool in case you need to excavate some dirt (all the pro placements were dug out by the FA team, but perhaps not where you would like them). Hopefully this climb will see some traffic and will become cleaner as time goes by. The crack eventually runs out near the top but there is a bolt for protection in the blank section. This leads you to the base of the main wall, a big sandy ledge and the first belay.

From here head up the main wall past a bolt to a flake system, then up a full pitch of easy, fun flake and face climbing to a natural belay when you feel comfortable walking up from there. Or belay a third pitch all the way to the brow of the dome.

The climb starts with an easy mantel onto a small shelf to reach the first bolt. Unlike some of the dome climbs where the crux is near the ground, the difficulty gets gradually harder as you move up, finally easing up as you reach the right-leaning (and easy) crack that leads you to the ring-anchors. It takes two ropes to rap from there. Bring a few small to medium cams for the top crack.

The first bolt is fairly high up and hard to spot from the ground, but it is easy climbing on highly featured rock to clip it. Note that the third bolt is way left and hard to see. There is a crack near the pine tree that accepts small cams to 1” and there you can clearly see the bolt at a 5.9 bulge and the crux of the climb. If you have a 70 meter rope you can continue past the massive ledge and up smooth 5.7 face climbing past two bolts to the ring anchors shared with Under My Skin. It takes two ropes to rap from here, or continue on fun, easy climbing (but no protection) to the uppermost anchor. Or if you want to skip the last bit up the wall, you can climb left up the ledge-crack to the Naptime ring anchors.

A fantastic, sustained sport climb on fine, clean granite. You may have to go to Tuolumne Meadows to find anything as good. Follow the bolts up past a small crescent to the sport anchor at the apex, 30 meters up (a 70 meter rope works for lower-off or top rope). You can climb 5.6 Slick Rock Cracks to set up a TR.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Nap Wall Area