The climb can be started directly under the first bolt via a large undercling flake (5.10), but the normal start is about 10' to the left, and about halfway to the start of

Rock-a-Lot

.

Above the flake a thin horizontal crack provides protection to the first bolt. Move up and left to the second bolt where the angle steepens and a thin seam starts (microwires handy here). Pull some thin moves and then hit a finger crack which leans to the right higher before ending below the top. Two more bolts protect fun, positive edges to the top.

Bolted anchor on top with a rap from anchors atop

Split Personality

.

High quality rock, fun moves and the continuous nature of the climbing make this a standout route of the area. Four stars out of five.

Rock Candy

Euthenics

Split Personality

Spitwad

MZM (Maria Zink Memorial)

The Griffin

Silent But Deadly

Double Dogleg

Lewd and Lascivious Conduct

Pop Rocks

Rock-a-Lot

Beck's Bet

Young Lust

Rock Dog Candy Leg

Holly Device

Unknown

Top of the Pops

Fortune Cookie

Personal Space

Candyman

Euthyphro

Smithereens

Climb a left slanting crack which turns to vertical and near the top widens into a chimney.

Climb

Double Dogleg

to the point where it stars leaning left and then cut right to reach a splitter finger crack. Positive jams and edges work up the face to a thin frictiony move at the top that leads right to the bolted anchors.

Fun moves, good rock and bomber gear are found on this route, but the shortness of the climbing independant of Double Dogleg detracts slightly from the overall quality. Three stars out of five.

This is a steep crack to the left of Euthyphro, near the left end of the wall.  As with the other routes on this wall, it is in shade most of the time.

This route starts about 100 feet across from and diagonal to "Young Lust." Start 10 feet left of a large chasm with a nolina at the chasm's base. An easy 10 foot boulder problem start to a nice right facing corner. Lieback and jam up the 15 foot corner to a sweet sustained finger and hand crack that eats gear and ends in a pod. A couple of interesting moves out of the pod that leads to easier climbing

This is a two bolt mixed face route, excellent moves and cool climbing, the rock quality is pretty rank but that just adds to the fun!

Start up a nice finger-thin hand crack with good gear until it fades into loose rock, figure out a way to traverse about 10' right to another loose crack making some scrappy moves to a welcome bolt.  Ascend more loose grainy flared crack-like face climbing to a committing move up and left to reach another welcome bolt.  Grain it out to the top!

Climb the thin cracks just right of Smithereens.

This route is pretty fun.  It starts just right of Top of the Pops.  This climb is a little run-out but on good holds.

Climb a fun low angle dihedral with hand jamming past wide pods up to a short finger crack and juggy, run-out face above on the arête, easier climbing past a horizontal (purple or green Camelot).

I think it's better to start this route in the clean right facing dihedral (On the Side) just to the right, this is also fun and 5.7 fingers.

This enjoyable route, with it's secure jams, good protection and fun moves make this is recommended route to do when in the area. This was also the first route climbed on the wall and it's name a take-off on the popular

Dogleg

in Hidden Valley CG. Three stars out of five.

The face between Young Lust and Smithereens is where you'll find this challenging route.

Easy moves at the start lead to a thin seam that splits the center of the face (crux). The climbing isn't especially difficult but hanging on long enough to wiggle in the gear is. Once past the crux load up some gear in a horizontal crack at mid-height and enjoy the steep edges with minimal pro that lead to the topout. The difficulty of the climb varies with how direct you stay, as wandering to either side can knock the grade down somewhat.

A serious lead that rarely gets done as most people visiting the area come for the moderate cracks of the area. Easily rigged as a toprope after leading either of the neighboring routes and much safer this way as well. One star out of five.

a nice face and crack, with a strenuous crux overhang.  It's in a shady location.

This climb ascends the left hand edge of the "shorter wall" of Rock Garden Valley that holds the more spectacular lines of Double Dogleg and Split Personality. Still the line does see some traffic and deservedly so. It is a nice and largely juggy warm up. It should be noted that "Shorter Wall" is a relative term and that the perhaps mis-named 'shorter wall' is taller than many of the walls at J-tree, with most of the lines being about 100' or so.

Start in the left hand side of the buttress, stemming a move or two up an A-shaped overhanging dihedral to a good horizontal, then heave up into a crack. Climb the crack up and to the top, passing a wide section about 1/2 way up.  The climb may not be appropriate for nervous or beginning leaders unless you take some OW protection.

Up top, place a directional and head for the bolt anchors of Rock Candy (up and right) to belay.  Rap with a 60M+ rope to descend.

This climb ascends the right hand edge of the "shorter wall" of Rock Garden Valley that holds the more spectacular lines of Double Dogleg and Split Personality. The line is pretty good and would be much better were it not for a huge ledge 1/2 way up which interrupts the climbing quite significantly. This line seems to get fewer ascents than the others at the same cliff. It should be noted that "Shorter Wall" is a relative term and that the perhaps mis-named 'shorter wall' is taller than many of the walls at J-tree, with most of the lines being about 100' or so.

Start at the far right-hand side of the buttress, climbing perhaps 10 meters up a handcrack to reach a ledge, tehn continuing up furher in a similar line for the top. Once topped out, move up and left to reach the set of bolt anchors of Split Personality (up and left) to belay. Rap with a 60M rope to descend.

If the lien were more singular, I'd have given it more stars.

This route and it's neighbor (

Smithereens

) lie on the shorter face left of

Rock Candy

and climb heavily featured thin cracks with lots of varnish.

Face climbing with the occasional jam is the name of the game here with the crux a thin move above a horizontal crack around mid-height. Higher, as you near the top the protection is somewhat scarce, but the generous nature of the holds makes this of little concern. The anchor is set back from the edge on a comfortable ledge so if planning to toprope you'll need to extend it.

A good climb but not on par with neighboring routes like Split Personality or Rock Candy. Two stars out of five.

The climbing is decent, albeit a tad contrived near the  top where it comes very close to both of the neighboring routes, with the crux a thin section about two-thirds of the way up and level with the crack section of Rock Candy. Two stars out of five.

Holly Device is a super fun mixed face route with really pleasant holds up a steep featured buttress, plus a typical Josh grain finish above the last bolt!

Just to the left of Holly Device in the obvious gully. Climb the start of Holly Device and then left into the large chossy crack. A few stemming and offwidth moves lead to a hand-sized crack on a flake that takes you to the top.

Up thin face then tricky to the right and equally tricky up to what from below looks like a good pocket....grab this and wonder why you ever came.

The foreboding crack though the bulge isn't quite so much.

This is a three bolt route on the narrow formation to the left of Spitwad. The crux is at the start. Small stoppers protect the initial moves. I placed three to give plenty of backup. After that, it rolls over and all you'll need are quickdraws. It's a moderately pleasant little climb.

This is the face on the right side of Shorter Wall between Split Personality and Beck's Bet. The climbing features edges, balance, and no protection.

Any easy toprope to set up and worth doing if you have climbed Double Dogleg, Split Personality or Beck's Bet.

Start as you would for Spitwad but continue straight up. The protection is good all the way, and there are some interesting moves. I think 5.9 is a little mild for the crux. All in all, a fine route that I'd do again.

This route and it's neighbor (

Young Lust

) lie on the shorter face left of

Rock Candy

and climb heavily featured thin cracks with lots of varnish.

Boulder up (small wire helpful) into a thin crack (crux), pass a horizontal around mid-height and then move past a large flake/ear and many features to finish in a right-slanting thin crack. The anchor is set back from the edge on a comfortable ledge so if planning to toprope you'll need to extend it.

Roughly the same difficulty as Young Lust, but the varied climbing and more interesting moves make this the better of the two routes. Two stars out of five.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Rock Garden Valley - Left Side