From the top of the "tunnel", look left.  This wall will have three bolts protecting friction moves to chains.

Mo So Low

Jambrosia

Thunderhead Spire

Pretzel Logic

The Cold Warrior 5.8

Butterfly Flats

Mousetrap

No Name Odd Though

Unknown

Blue Moon

Caterpiller Corner

Arputso Goes to Seattle

So Low

Punch Out

Cosmic Ray

Rabbit Tracks

Racing The Moon

Stealth Made Man

Chimney Cricket

Fun gear protected laybacking for the first 30' to exciting face climbing. Frictiony feel for the feet...

As you approach the area as described above, you will go under a big slab boulder.  This is the "tunnel" I described in the approach.  As you go through this, the rock to your right is Jambrosia Tower.  The route Jambrosia is on the far side of this tower (South).  There is a left-facing corner near a large pine tree.  This corner is Just For Grins, 5.6*.  Just to the left of this corner is a steep hand and fist crack that appears to be an offwidth (trust me, its hands and fists).  This crack is Jambrosia.  Climb this in one pitch to the chimney.  You can wriggle up to the top and descend via chains on the East side OR you can wriggle across it to a small pine tree, and walkoff/downclimb to the north and back above the "tunnel".

Fun little spire! 

  Why wouldn't you climb this little guy if you were in the area???!!!

It is a real roof crack with finger locks and hand jams.  More of a roped boulder problem than a climb.  Low angle climbing leads to a 7ft. roof crack.  Figuring out how to turn the lip might leave you hanging. 

Starts on the face to the right of Caterpiller Corner.  Trust your feet moves on face with crimpers for your hands.  Follow the bolts and move into the corner for protection when it starts to lay down.  You can lead Caterpiller Corner to setup a top rope, then walk straight up the slab for even more fun.

The crux comes about 20ft. off the deck and is well protected via a bolt.  This is a pretty stiff crux for a 5.9, but this is what squeezing the lemmon calls it.  At the last "bulge" before the finishing slab one can go left and probably get pro or stick with the line and go for the 5.8R slab.  Moving way right here is wild and fun!

Climbs past a bolt to big ledge then you can go up the corner with gear or finger traverse left around arete to a bolt on the face then up past more bolts.  Better to stay in the corner.

If anyone knows the name of this route, let me know and I will change it.  There is also another route between this route and "Butterfly Flats" that is not in the guidebook. 

  Start on slabby rock, stem up to ledge, fight with a small tree, then head up low-angle edges to top.

Obvious corner - look for chains to the right of a large corner.  Starts under a big downpull with a cupped indentation to the right.  Head right up the corner to slabby finish.  This is a sweet route.

This is a really fun route with the crux coming at the roof near the top.  Watch out for the hollow flake in the middle of the route.  Besides this, the rock is great quality and the route is well protected.  Although graded harder, I felt the crux here was easier than the crux on Mousetrap.

At the top of the tunnel described in the area description, look left to see two routes.  The right (three bolts)  is "Mo So Low" and the left is "So Low".  Start on the face left of the chimney crack to approach the first bolt from the right side.  Move up an onto the face above the bolt and proceed up the left hand face to chains.  There is plenty of opportunity for protection.  This route is probably half a grade tougher than "Mo So Low".

Short groove to short fat crack climbing at it's best.

Stem the corner up to a fixed pin then climb past a few bolts on mostly jugs to anchors.

All the way down the hill at Turret rock to a crack on the left edge of the quite narrow west face.  Follow the crack to the chains.

Start in a short, shallow dihedral that is naturally protected. Start clipping bolts and climb through a lower angle section of moderate difficulty. Rest on a ledge and clip the bolt before the reachy crux. Climb on good holds to a flake and get a few small pieces in before the exciting finish. The moves are interesting, the rock quality good, and the bolt spacing and pro added some spice.

Between Arputso and Bogus Excitement. Starts same as Bogus, but moves out left to bolts.

fun chimney climb 25 ft left of catapiller corner. pretty easy climbing although most peeps would prolly say 5.6 but i thought 5.5 was good. good prodeep in the chimney. varries from chimney to squeeze to a lil  off width thrown in. gotta wrestle 3 trees on the way up.great beginer route.not sure on the order of routes but its right in this bunch can summit the turret from here with a lil 5.easy. But it down climbs a lil goofy. Could also set up top ropes for most of the routes on either side

Like most of the stuff around Windy Point, Turret Rocks is a group of towers with climbing on all aspects (read: shade chasing).  Moderate trad climbing, and 5.10 to 5.12 sport climbing prevails.  For moderate trad, I suggest Jambrosia 5.8** on the tower by the same name, and Rabbit Tracks 5.6***.  The latter is especially great for the new leader.  I have only done one sport climb there, but they all look great.

Description

Protection

Routes in Turret Rock and Environs