A fun left-facing corner on the west side of The Gulch.  Jam and lieback to glory.

Gets direct AM sun.  This part of the canyon is not in the raptor closure area.

This route is described in Bjornstad's 'Desert Rock IV' (2003:410-411).

5.8 Corner

Cactus Fall

Flipper Babies

Bastard Child

Beam Bump

Longs Lies

Easy Peasy (Lemon Squeezy)

Start from the right moving up a ledge where the off-width crack starts.  There is a small crack inside the o.w. that fits smaller pro (~0.75) that saves the wider stuff for up higher where you need it.  Crux at the o.w. bulge.  Original description in BjørnStad's Desert Rock IV.

The crux come at 3/4 height, it involves leaving the crack and going hand traversing. On the FA I pounded a #2 angle in at the crux, I went back 2 years later and pulled it out with my finger (it even had a bail biner on it!!) Now a nice TCU fits in there. Its a GREAT "just got here, need to warm up" route.

This spicy meatball is just right of Flipper babies. Hard/weird crack moves at the bottom turn into cruising past one drilled pin and up to 2 more drilled angles on the vertical crux, throw a dynmaic sideways thingy towards the anchor, "that edge IS as good as it looks" whewww..

This silly route starts on the west side of a boulder that looks like a "summit" when viewed from the right spot.

P1. Start up the very cool looking cracks using the big patina's for holds until you reach a 2 bolt anchor at 100 feet. 5.9

P2.From big stance climb up and right. Climb up the obvious sweet finger crack. 5.9+ 50 feet

P3 Bring some nuts or cable swages for tying off BOMBER (as of 4/06;) ) bolts to the window,climb through the window onto terra-firma and a 2 bolt belay. this pitch might be freeable? A0. 40 feet

It is possible to combine 2 and 3.

A journey through crack sizes from squeeze to fingers.  The 70 degree angle of the slab keeps the grade mellow.  The crux is the crescendo finger crack (30 feet of #0.3 Camalots).   Spacious belay ledge.

You will need a #2 and #3 Camalot for the belay (the gear for the belay is low to the ground and about 10 feet back from the edge).  Extra webbing might be useful.  No anchors, no walk-off.  A single rope (60m) rappel from my abandoned gear puts you on the ground with rope stretch.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Long Canyon