Prepare thy monos for battle!

Gunsmoke Over Lander is a short burly route that requires power, precision, and the gumption to crank on some monos. There are 6 single pad monos on the route, with 4 of them requiring some serious try hard.

From the ground, It is pretty easy getting to the little shelf where you can clip the 3rd bolt and rest for as long as you want. Once you leave the ledge, it is on until you clip the chains (basically a long V7? pocket boulder). Make long pulls between tiny pockets and terrible feet. Clip the last bolt (or the one below) from a good right hand crimp, and make a few more hard moves pulling over the bulge. It is in the shade until 3PM or so.

The route is named after the upcoming Sci-Fi Western Comedy novel to be released in 2040.

EDIT: Now after others have tried it, 5.13b sounds more fitting than the original 13a rating.

Gunsmoke Over Lander

Vertical Smile AKA The Grand Adventure

The Blackboard

Recess Time

Finish Your Homework

Sorting Hat Right

K-School

Hot for Teacher

Sorting Hat Left

The Big So-So

Ice Cream

Banish Misfortune

Imaginary Fans

Cool Whip

Ms. Carmels

C'est Fini

Start left of the bolt line in large pockets.  Move up and right to a large rail - just below the first bolt (entering the crux).  Hoist over the bulge to the clean pocketed face to a second rail.  The last two bolts are easier slab climbing before clipping the anchors.

Be creative with your feet!

The Grand Adventure is the centerpiece of the School Wall.  Easly defined as the route that pulls a 5 foot roof to a finger crack in a corner.  This climb is equipped with 3 sets of anchors getting harder the higher you climb.  Juggy fun near vertical 5.8 to the first set, then low angle crimps and pockets 11a to the second set, and finally 2 bolts of intimidating 11c roof/crack climbing to the last set of anchors.  All 3 sections very different from each other and are worth doing.

Mosey up the dihedral and flake until you arrive at the base of the slightly overhanging black face above, clipping a few bolts along the way. From there, a bouldery 5.11 sequence gets you to the lower set of anchors. 5.11b? to there.

Another, more difficult, bouldery sequence utilizes the few holds on the black face to gain the slab above. It isn’t over until you are clipping the last bolt, firmly standing on the slab.

New route on the main feature.  Obvious feature now with the new steel.  Jugs and pockets to an amazing finish on streaked type rock.  Another J RO classic!  Best 5.11- sport route in Sinks?

Finish Your Homework is a 2 part outing with juggy near vertical 5.9 on stellar big pockets that make you use them wisely to a set of anchors.  Leaving those anchors head left up low angle slabby terrain to a ledge with anchors 11a. Both parts are very good for that style/grade.

Start 85 feet right of the tree. Climb easy jugs for 30 feet. This section is maybe 5.7 and is vertical. The second half of this climb is a slab with thin with okay feet. This climb seemed easier than Sorting Hat Left (immediately to the left of this climb). Easier climbing in the upper third. Moves left to share anchors with Sorting Hat Left.

Climb jugs to the first anchor at around 5.8.  Traverse to the right following the line of bolts to a large crack and follow the bolts up the crack to the anchor.

P1. 5.10 on jugs and pockets to 2BA;

P2. 5.12b on tech grey bullet shield to 2BA below an overhang.

Start near the tree. Climb easy jugs for 30 feet. This section is maybe 5.7 and is vertical. The second half of this climb is a slab with incredibly thin with sketchy feet. There are three bolts within 5 feet of each other. This is the crux. Easier climbing after.

Starts off steep with adult leadouts to a intermediate anchor below the bulge: 5.8.

Above the anchor, up to the bulge and perform a stout deadpoint to a good pocket, then work left along the bulge on thin face (crux), then up to anchor.

Alternatively, if you don't like the looks of the deadpoint, you can move right along the crack below the bulge onto the upper Banish Misfortune and finish out that way (10a).  Recommend a couple of single length runners to minimize rope drag on this option.

Recently cleaned and retro bolted.  Updated sport climb.  Fun as hell!  Follow the chalk on pockets to the overhang (crux?) to the scoop to the anchor.

This is a fun climb. Climb juggy 5.8 pockets for 30 feet to a bulge and a set of anchors. Maneuver your way around the bulge and climb harder flakes, pockets (monos), edges, and crimps to a second set of anchors.

Climb casual jugs to the first anchor at around 5.8. Then make a few harder moves to a big ledge.  Make a series of big moves to small pockets and then crimp and smear your way to the anchors.

Recently resurrected.  Cleaned and ready to roll.  Long moves low to an obvious tech nasty crux to 5.11- rambling.  Old classic that should see more love now!

The right-most route of the three to the left of the trail. Climb easy jugs for 30 feet. The second half of this climb is slabbier, but still has good hands and feet. Much more straight-forward than the Sorting Hat climbs immediately left.

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Protection

Routes in The School