A decent little two pitch route that climbs the slabby face on the right side of Winter Heat Wall. Good practice for building anchors. 

  P1) 5.3. 120'. Start in some bushes below a slabby crack (look for a hollow flake about 15' up). Climb ~20' to a small ledge and continue through a slight off-width to a larger ledge (be mindful of rope drag in this section). Follow the obvious crack/ramp left to a right-facing corner. Build an anchor here (small cams and nuts). 

  P2) 5.7. 70' Stay slightly right of the corner on cracks and sandy edges, climbing up to/past a small overhang. Step back into the corner, above the overhang, and follow the corner to the top. (1"-2" cams for anchor). 

  Descent: From the top of P2, traverse left (east) along the ledge and rap off the fixed anchors at the top of Winter Heat (first anchors you come across). You can additionally rap off the tree at the top of A-OK (far left side of wall).

Hole in the Pants

Winter Heat

Striptease

The Reign of Swain

Couldn't be Schmooter

Judy's Route

Nuttin Could be Finer

Autumnal Frost

[Redacted]

Seasonal Controversies

Striptease is a fantastic pitch that scales a gently overhanging panel of cracked varnish on the right side of the Winter Heat Wall.  

  Begin at the top of the ramp on a finger crack shared with High Class Ho. Some gear will get you to the first bolt, then pull the roof and prepare thyself for battle - a building pump leads to the top of the wall. The anchor is set back from the edge (cordelette useful?) and although the business end of this rig sports 8 bolts you may wish for a small cam to protect the cruxy moves between bolts one and two. 

  Great climbing that is only docked a star because of a few brittle holds.

Fantastic route up beautiful chocolate colored rock. Follow the thin seam up the center of the wall to a large scoop. Place your pro fast to avoid burning out. Super fun and well worth a visit. Good protection for the entire length of the route, but place it when you can.

A thin and devious route that is probably a bit of a sandbag at 5.10d. Start left of the obvious chimney on the left side of the wall. There are two routes on this wall- this is the leftmost route. Follow the bolts up and left through a roof, clip a bolt and then make the run (20') to the anchors.

Good route left of Winter Heat. Fun climbing up dark varnished rock. Plenty of protection options to satisfy all your safety needs.

 History: According to Wendall Broussard aka “The Dean of Red Rock,” both “Couldn’t be Schmooter“ and “High Class Ho” are both named after a French craps dealer that worked at Caesar's Palace in the 1980’s. After the deal, he would mutter to Wendall in a heavy French accent “Couldn’t be Schmooter!“ Unfortunately the Frenchman could neither deal smoothly nor pronounce the word smooth. One day Wendall and Paul VB were exploring beyond Kraft mountain when they ran into an old friend Randall Grandstaff. Grandstaff known for tall tales, asked Wendall what they were doing so far back; “We’re looking for routes”  Wendall said, “well there are none back there” said Grandstaff. Wendall and Paul both looked at each other and knew that they about to strike gold.

Slab moves past the first two bolts.  Follow the bolt line left and then right using crimps and side pulls for four bolts.  Slab climbing for two more bolts then lead to the final move pulling a roof to an anchor.

The Jerry Handren book describes this pitch as a couple of huge reaches to gain a shallow corner at 11d. We climbed this route on top rope and figured out some beta that involves a two handed dynamic throw to some small sloppey crimps. If done this way we suspect the grade would be more like 5.13 or a V7 boulder problem with 5.9 climbing to access the BP, and 5.11 climbing after. Following the books description (up and left of the bolt into the shallow corner) is probably much harder than V7. There was zero chalk on the route when we tried it and I'm wondering if anyone has done or tried it recently?!

If your in the area don't miss this one! Up and left of Winter Heat off a high ledge. Follow a beautiful short thin hands then over a roof (left side) up black polished ramp (small aliens or brassies needed) Shares same anchor as Winter Heat.

 History: According to Wendall Broussard aka “The Dean of Red Rock,” both “Couldn’t be Schmooter“ and “High Class Ho” are both named after a French craps dealer that worked at Caesar's Palace in the 1980’s. When pretty women would walk by he would mutter to Wendell in a heavy french accent, “Now that’s a High Class Ho.” One day Wendall and Paul VB were exploring beyond Kraft mountain when they ran into an old friend Randall Grandstaff. Grandstaff known for tall tales, asked Wendall what they were doing so far back; “We’re looking for routes”  Wendall said, “well there are none back there” said Grandstaff. Wendall and Paul both looked at each other and knew that they about to strike gold.

A good (and powerful) route just to the right of Winter Heat. Start below two bolts that sit right of Winter Heat. Work your way up the wall, following the features above the bolts, aiming for a slot of white rock where another bolt waits for you. Finish at the Winter Heat anchor.

A nice black varnished wall with one pitch routes from 5.0 to 5.12, mostly mixed trad/sport.  Shady in the afternoon.

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Location

Protection

Routes in Winter Heat Wall