This is a fun climb. Start from ledge next to some graffiti and just right of Triple Delight, 5.12a. Be careful belaying from ledge, the rock to the sides of route is still chossy, and it's easy to fall off the ledge. There is an awkward move from last bolt to anchors, the route seems to move from the right to the anchors, but there is an older piton to the left of the anchors. We are unsure if the route perhaps moves left and up.

Smack and Spray

The Slot

You Call Yourself a Thief?

Cisco Kid

40oz of Freedom

Dr. Who

Unknown

Shoulder Season

Saw Blade

Scalsamine

5.11c

Knobs

Double Scooter

Robbin' the Hood

Uncle Kurt's Disco

Knobs Up

Dare to be Bold

Climb the face and chimney through a bit of bird poo.  It is still a little chossy.

There is an old piton on the left side of the groove just below the crux. Be sure to clip it with a long sling to reduce rope drag.

Climb an excellent crack to face, and finish back on a crack.

Start under smooth & light colored rock looking for a right facing flake ~ 15' up.  Work up on small sidepulls and sharp crimps, reach over and clip 2 bolts on "Dare to be Bold". Then meet the thin crux 5' below the crack system starts.

Climb the crack in the right-facing dihedral.  This has lots of fun stemming and solid gear placements.

This is on the SW corner under a big pine tree. There is one bolt high at the crux, otherwise it takes small wires and cams.  It has double shut anchors at the top. "They can not be easily reached un-roped to set up a toprope!"

Crux just after first bolt into easier climbing to the anchors

This has many variations on TR. It is great for kids.

This is a popular route on the head of the turtle.

The 1st pitch is 5.9, and the second pitch is 5.11.

Scalsamine is an easy 5.9 climb ending below a roof.

This is listed in Perkins

"Arkansas Valley Climbing"

simply as 5.11c with no other name. It is the second route to the right of

Saw Blade

. The first route right is also simply listed as 5.11c. Better names are needed. Neither climb is 5.11c, although 5.11a/b is a reasonable rating for both.

The crux is before the 1st bolt, which entails a scamble up to a small roof.  After cliping the first bold, the climb becomes very good steep slab climbing on big crystals.

The old guidebook called it 5.9.  That is a big time sandbag, IMO.

The route is an obvious weakness in the large roof to the right of "

The Slot

". It is the offwidth crack. Belay from the ledge bellow the roof. From a small boulder, you can place a 0.5 C4 in a small crack in the roof. This has fun, boulder-like moves to move past the roof. After the roof, continue up the crack, the climbing gets easier. Finish at the bolts used for the slot. The roof is composed of an intrusion of smaller, grainular granite.  Good climbing.

The guidebook says 5.11c, but it feels more like 5.10c.  It is very similar to

Knobs

.

Begin on a blank face under a small roof, clipping 2 bolts on the way. Plug some gear before mounting the roof. After making an airy move onto the face of the arete, clip 3 more bolts to the anchors. Overall, this is a funky stout climb with a little bit of everything.

This can be done as a pure sport route if you are very solid in the grade. However, without placing gear in the roof, a fall before the 3rd bolt could end very badly for you.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Turtle Rocks