I climbed this arete, but it already had tons of chalk on it (FAist?). It was fun,and has a fun bump with the right hand before the top. There is a big rock at the base of the opposing wall. Make sure your pad covers it, as I almost had a nasty encounter with it. Going up the arete I generally kept my body weight on the right foot and side of the arete.

Northwest Arete

Baby James Dihedral

Mantle Problem

Man Up

Baby Steps

Slant

Frosted Flakes

Hornet's Pocket

All the right hand holds are crimps, the left hand holds are slopers and 2 crimps. The crux is at the top of the problem. There is an okay sloper on the arete, but it's a big move from a sharp, right hand crimp.

The start of the route is on a good right hand ledge and a good left hand side pull around waist level. The first move is a left hand slap to the arete. Find the sweet spot, and it's pretty good! Then move your right hand up to a crimp, your left hand in to a crimp. Then move your right hand to a sharp crimp, and then the crux. I've seen people do the crux different ways, either a heel hook around the arete or low feet on the start holds.

There are a few good pockets in a crack in the dihedral. The crux is a big move to a large, flat ledge.

Stand start at the left-facing, sloping arete. Climb to the obvious jug ledge up and right, and mantel it. It is tough and has been done statically and dynoed.

Start low with two good feet and both hands on a sloped ledge. The crux is a big move from a left sidepull up to a great, three finger pocket. It's a good warmup for trusting your feet!

This has no real crux, it's true to grade most of the way up. Use the arete and the crack.

Starting on a chest high, triangular flake, work your way up and right to a large edge. From here, high step/mantel to the large flake to top out.

At the base of this climb, there are a few detached blocks. Avoid these for full value.

As this is on the main boulder and near many of the popular climbs, I'm sure this has been climbed before. If you know anything, let me know!

Start low, the first move is a pain. Watch out for the hornet that I usually see in the first big pocket! After the first move, it's a V0.

If you use the arete, it makes the entire route V0.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Boulder