This is a relatively brittle route that, with a few more ascents, could become an amazing route in the First Creek area.  It is a great combination of face climbing, overhanging jugs, and a crack that requires all of your creativity to complete.  It begins on "Doobie Dance"  on the Romper Room wall.    P1: After climbing up Doobie dance, continue up the left leaning crack through 2 roofs (brittle) to a small nook and belay from there, .75-2 for the anchor 5.9 150 ft.    P2:Continue up the crack to a bush. 5.8 140 ft   P3:The money pitch! Continue up the crack using fingers, hands, fists and anything you can to make your way up the crack.  The crux is a thin crack to a fist jam 3/4 through where the feet disappear on a polished face, and the gear becomes thin.  Protect with a #6 or #7 stopper or small cams.  Make your way through the jam to a slight off width, protected with #4 or #5 Camalot.  Continue through the disappearing crack to some thin face climbing.  Watch out for the "cactus crux" at the end.  Belay from a ledge.  5.10c 180 ft   P4: Continue up and to the left to a crack and a ledge at the top of the route. 5.9 60 ft 

  Note: It is also possible to continue up and right after the cactus crux pitch, however daylight motivated us to do a shorter last pitch.

Hall of Mirrors

Buzz Buzz

Girls and Buoys

Unnamed Top Rope

Romper Room

Frank's Right Foot Stinks

Algae on Parade

Guise and Gals

Magic Mirror

Doobie Dance

Kindergarten Cop

It starts about 20 feet left of the black Romper Room face, in an large, obvious low angle corner with a big flat belay area.  Start to the left of the 10' high triangular pillar, then layback up the rounded crack in the right facing corner.

From Guise and Gals, continue under the boulder and around the corner to find the start of Girls and Buoys.  Good climb for a 5.5.  Start in the left most of three corners at ground level and climb about 40 feet to a ledge.  Step left into the first corner and continue to the anchors.  The crux is stepping into the upper corner  the climbing is easy, but the pro is a little thin in spots, especially as you move higher.  Fun, thoughtful route.  (There is a 5.4 variation that climbs the second corner to the left from the ledge.  It can also be reached by starting on Guise and Gals and traversing to the right.)

A few small hands/feet sections, otherwise very casual climbing.  Good slab climbing practice.

Romper Room climbs the middle of the rectangular patch of black varnished rock to a two bolt anchor just under a roof. Follow cracks and flakes to the top. This route features more liebacking than its neighbor, Doobie Dance.

Great face climb (TR) to the right of the Romper Room route. This is on solid rock with interesting face moves. Fun, continuous climbing. Highly recommend! The crux moves may be a bit height dependent.  

  It would be great if a TR anchor could be added at the top of this route. The route has mild swing potential if TRing off the Romper Room anchors. Also, the quality of the route probably justifies adding a separate anchor.

This route is the last one on the climber's right on the square, black-varnished wall which houses the routes Doobie Dance and Romper Room. 

  Pitch 1- Crux pitch. Climb the left-facing corner/crack, pulling a small overhang onto a ledge with a large bush. Scramble up to the next large bush on another ledge.  

  Pitch 2- Climb the low-angle crack system to a belay stance in a left-facing corner. 

  Pitch 3- Head up the easy crack/varnished face to a large ledge.  

  Pitch 4- A pitch worth of fourth class. Those that are not comfortable with 4th-class terrain may want to rope up. 

  Descent:   WARNING: THE OLD GUIDEBOOKS ARE WRONG!  Do not descend via Lotta Balls descent gully.  It is long, indirect, brushy, and involves tricky ropework.  THE BEST WAY TO DESCEND is to move right (west) from the top of the climb and scramble down a gully (3rd class on its west side) to a ledge with a small pine tree and rap station.  Two straightforward, single-rope rappels (60m works) and a little downclimbing take you to the base of the wall just east of Rising Moons.

 Re: Pitch 1      There is a rap anchor, one bolt and natural pro at the first ledge with a bush, if you choose to do only the first worthy pitch. You will need two ropes to rap. Also... you may want to bring some webbing to back up the ratty ones if you plan on rapping from pitch 1.

Guise and Gals is the first climb in the Romper Room Area.  To get to the start, climb to the ledge that starts near the Lotta Balls area and traverses under the Alcohol Wall.  The climb works up a shallow dihedral on the face behind a large boulder.  The dihedral is somewhat smooth, but the friction is good and it protects well.  At the top of the dihedral, step left, and continue up the corner to the anchors on the wall to the left.  Rappel with a single rope. 

  Gear: Standard rack.

Starts in the obvious big left facing corner just to the right of Kindergarten Kop. Start up the easy, right-leaning ramp, then gaze in trepidation up the steepening corner above. Its easier than it looks, but the crux (an awkward jamming move without much for the feet) felt a bit tougher than 5.5.

This climb goes up the left side of the steep, rectangular patch of black rock in the Romper Room Area. Finger cracks, varnished plates and large jug holds bring you to the top. Well protected. Rappel from a two bolt anchor with one 60m rope. This is a good climb for the beginner leader.

If there is a crux it would come up by the 3rd bolt in a one move thin section of rock.  Could be the best route on the wall IMHO and should not be missed!  Really killer start to climb and then just super consistent great climbing with some really fun run-outs that really are not too bad!

Romper Room features at least six (5.4  to 5.7+) single pitch trad routes. Descend most routes by rappelling from anchors, some descents require two ropes. This area faces north east and can get morning sun.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Romper Room