Variation of Iron Spike (5.7). Climber's left arete to the top.

 Similar to Iron Roof...its a one move wonder 5.9 to get through the roof.

Iron Arete

Edging

The Pinnacle

fancy toes

Lady Slippers

Unamed

GET OFF MY LAWN !

Peace Face

Sound the Alarm

Eaten Alive

Red Stripe

Magic Bean

Sigma Male Grindset

Ain't Nothin' but a Tree Thang

Sea Legs

Tetanus

Very Unnecessary

Murder Rocks

Behind the old spike

The Peace Stem

Spinal Flake

Starfish

Slabcrack

Stand and deliver

Iron Roof

Bonsai

Iron Spike

Box Traverse

Two in the Stink (project)

Squasher

The Sour Batch Kids

Rock Slug

A short but awesome climb! Starts with a left hand on the low crimpy rail, a right on the nice jutting edge, a left in the low crack, and a right heel up on the right ledge. Quick left hand move to the next crimp above then match. Bring the left foot up a little to a solid spot and shoot for the  top with whatever hand feels comfortable. Pull up with good feet and top out.

Rock quality is the crux right now. Some flakey rock will sluff off as more climb this beautiful solitary boulder. 

 Pure V-easy fun

Ascend the right trending seam. Sit start to the right of the pine tree. Right hand on the obvious hold. left hand low in the seam. Good luck finding the feet that work for you. Short, powerful. awkward. fun.

Start left of the crack. Undercling the left face, delicate foot traverse to lyback. Get to the top.

 **Don't use the tree**

start matched on the low on the left edge and move up with a couple hard moves.See comment by Zelenograd Wilson, broken hold may have changed grade. R Hall, NH Adam.

Beginning slab shiz with side crimp probably the crux. I don’t know. It’s the first move. Go straight up to pines. 

Definitely not the first to do this, but worthy of a post on Mountain Project. Start on the left low rail/jug, traverse right on the rail just above the peace symbol, and top out right of it. Gets the PG13 for the landing having a downhill drop zone, should definitely have a spotter!

Start up the north face arete of the Pinnacle. 

 Balance moves and some fun liebacking to the top. 

The crux is getting out of the cave. 

 Sit start for the full tick....try not to be Eaten Alive!

Named after the bottle of Red Stripe found at the base of the problem.  Short, 3-move problem.  Start on the lower stable flake, move up and get a heel hook to top out.  I would check the integrity of the flake before committing.

Starts right of the crack. 

Easy slab climbing to a foot rail and then the real challenge begins.

Look for the magic bean!

Just a small short boulder with a mini dyno.

Start out on good holds with slabby feet. Work up easy moves into the obvious hand crack. Continue over two small 'trees', top out up and left. Basic crack climbing skills make this a fairly easy but fun route. Can be done as a top rope or high-ball boulder.To the right of Sea Legs, and Slabcrack

Wonderful face with about 3 variations. Each with their own personality. 

Great for laps and practicing slab techniques. Fire away. 

For the full difficulty do not use the diagonal crack on the left.

 Using drilled monos and the arete only crank this otherwise straight forward line to a challenging paddle problem.

Start at the bottom of rock wall. Traverse uphill and finish back on the ground.

Quality sequence with a committing top out. Start in the center on a lyback, hit the jug above and move left on to crimpy sidepulls, then straight up to top out. Super fun!

Located off of the green trail deeper in the park. This hidden climb is easy to miss.  The window of climbable days is also small. There needs to be about 2-3 days of dry weather for the landing to be bearable. Water pools below climb on wet days. 

Start on the obvious shelf and work your way up and right to a jug. See photo.

 ** make sure you take a good look at holds on this wall before climbing as there are many that might blow off on you.

This climb is harder than it looks. Slippery slab climbing with some potential to stem the left facing rock. 

 Thins out up top. For extra challenge only use the slab... just don't fall. The landing zone isn't great.

 V1 if  using both rock faces V2+ if only using slab

A fun overlooked problem. Sit start the obvious holds. The crux is topping out with marginal feet. A fall from the top would be unfortunate.

The left most line on the boulder. Easy moves up a gracious crack. 

 Fun for first timers

Sit start the obvious holds. Stand on the flake and fire for the top. 

Same start as Iron Spike (5.7). This variation moves left and directly through the roof section. 

 Some convienetly placed quarry holes make for much needed finger holds. 

 Its one move wonder 5.10 to a sweet mantle. If you don't know the beta its a nice boulderly move. Ya make do with whatcha got...ya know?

 Enjoy!

The climb leads directly up the ladder of drilled monos.

 A fall leads directly to the hospital.

The easiest variation of the Iron Spike climbs. Right up the middle and head climbers right to avoid the roof section.

 Nothing especially wild about this climb but when there is nothing to climb within 1.5hrs of this town...this route is king.

 Go get some laps!

A short but fun problem with great holds. Start with right hand sidepull and left hand on the edge with good feet, then climb to the top by bumping the right hand followed by swinging the left to the crimp above. Nice easy move to the nice edge on top. Either climb for a short V0 or continue by traversing to a far decent hold for a little extra challenge. A high right foot makes it easy to get a right hand over, followed by a high left foot to match with the left hand. Bump the right hand over around the corner to the top without swinging and look for a nice right foot along the corner. Mantle and top out.

Start on juggy side pull to the left and wide pinch to the right. Transition to line of drilled monos to the left, then use small crimps to a slopey top out.PG13 because of a small boulder located in the fall line when you get further to the left.Didn't get to finish due to rain, and I'm not local,  but would love to see it go. 

It starts to the right; on the first step of the exit path. Immediately head for bottom right of roof.. getting under to left side of roof and up is the crux. 

Sit start with one hand on either side of the arete and work your way up and left. A bit sharp and not super proud, but had some really good movement. If someone has climbed this before just let me know!

Cool start. Foot on furthest rock. Hand on low outcrop. 

Clifford Park is an amazing outdoor escape but not just for the climbing. If you visit Clifford Park it isn't just to climb. There are designated walking / trail-running loops that total 15 miles with many more unofficial trails that are frequented by mountain bikers and wildlife. Its even possible to link trails to Smith Preserve and down to Cape Porpoise. Gorham Bike and Ski runs weekly MTB rides and can help you find new trails (facebook.com/gbssaco/)

 ***Clifford Park has a bad reputation for trash, broken glass, and the occasional squatter. Just be safe, pick up some trash if you can, and have a great time!

 ROCK HISTORY The rocks follow two main granite veins which cross the park East to West. These granite rocks were part of a multitude of quarries dating back to the 1800s. The largest collection of mines belonged to the Andrews Quarries which were most active in 1886. Biddeford granite was used in construction of the military forts near Portland, the Lincoln Monument in Illinois, and multiple bridge foundations in NYC. There is frequent quarry / mining evidence throughout the park and it makes for some fun climbing around blocky slabs of forgotten quarries. Happy exploring!

 THE CLIMBING The most appealing climbs with the least amount of lichen have been posted here, but if you are eager to get scrubbing or climb harder routes there are more climbs out there to find.

 PEAK SEASON The climbing season here is very similar to Pawtuckaway or any NE climbing. Early spring and late fall are prime to avoid the bugs.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Clifford Park