Start of a block and step right to get into the flake (optional cam placement). Traverse the flake right for a couple feet until you can clip the bolt over your head. Now enter the crux, make fun moves on sloper holds to a slopey ledge. Then tackle the upper bulge on more slopey jugs, to an easy low angle finish.  

  The easiest line wanders a little bit at the start.

Octoberfest

Start Me Up

Rocket

Ninety Degrees in the Shade

Cage Fighter

Bombs Away

Twisted Schister

Race Day

Punchdrunk

Schoolhouse Rock

Who Cooks For You?

On the right side of the beautiful clean slab that shares Twisted Schister. A harder direct line on really cool holds leads through a slab bulge that requires some very tricky beta for the grade and finishes on the last moves of an old crack climb. Shares a two bolt anchor with Twisted Schister. 

The crux is right of the ground through the second bolt. So I suggest a stick clip. Make bouldery moves on slippery holds trending from right to left. When the angle of the rock becomes slab clip the bolt on your left and make easy moves to a hidden two bolt anchor. 

Climb the right facing corner to the left of Bombs Away. Good gear but tricky climbing get you to a small ledge. Traverse slightly right underneath the roof with a finger sized crack going through it. I placed a couple pieces here. Decent holds over the lip will you help you fight your way through. Once on top of the bulge protection becomes scarce, rock quality isn’t quite as good, but it is moderate up to the new bolted anchor. A worthwhile climb! 

Climb the dirty slab past 3 bolts (hard to see all 3 from ground) heading toward left facing corner. Climb the cleaner corner on good pro. Trend slightly left above for fixed anchor or belay from a tree.  

  Note: A fixed anchor is mentioned in guidebook, I did not see it and ended up belaying from a tree

 Mentioned in the Sykes Guide as "The Wicked Roof Project" Start under the giant roof and get established on a little ledge. Fire through the roof using side pulls to a jug at the lip. Only then, the crux begins. Do what seems like a ton of moves on bad holds without making much progress until you can get established above the roof. Enjoy 5.9 face climbing on Quartz to the anchor. Quick clip equipped!

Super classic! Climb and surprisingly easy left facing corner with a crack with good gear until getting established under the bulge. Place some bomber gear and fire away. Perfect hands/fists will get you through the bulge. The top degrades in quality a little bit but very soon you’ll be clipping a new 2 bolt stainless anchor at the top. This route deserved the recent makeover it received.

One of the highest quality “old routes” at Lincoln Crag. Newly retro bolted (with permission from Chuck) with stainless glue ins and a bolted anchor with clips. Classic movement up a slab utilizing several flaring cracks gets you under a bulge. Pull over the bulge and get ready for some thin / balancey moves to the ledge above. A must do! 

Climb the fun but short corner (crux) until under a bolt. Clip the bolt and pull up over onto the slab. Climb easily to the tree and make an anchor there.  

  If the corner went on for another 40 feet it would be a classic, unfortunately it does not.

This route tackles the obvious steep white headwall that “Black Fly Festival” climbs the right side of. Start in an easy but very fun  chimney and make your way past two bolts until gaining a small ledge with a wide crack in the wall infront of you. (Optional #4 Camalot here to protect yourself while clipping the first bolt on the steeps). From here it’s a wild ride!  A series of crimps gives way to a horizontal crack, move right in the crack to setup for a massive move to a jug. I have some seriously strange beta for this move that requires my feet being in the same horizontal as my hands and becoming completely sideways on the wall , ( the route was almost named “Beach Babe” for this strange pose on the wall but I had some doubts that this would be the “normal beta” ) Anyways, after the jugs there is another huge move to the lip and a wild mantle to the anchor. Don’t blow it or you’re going to catch some air! (Very safe fall ) 

Start up the obvious right leaning crack just to the right of the headwall that makes up Black Fly Festival 5.12a. Make fun crack moves up to an smaller overlap (crux). Once over the overlap follow the crack to the top of the arete and make a balancy move to establish yourself on big ledge and up a short corner to trees at the top. Again there is an existing anchor up there but I dont know if I would trust it. Rappel the route when finished.

The first wall you come to when hiking into Lincoln Crag. This wall has two distinct parts. The right side, a 150 foot tall slab that is dirty and needs some love and the left side, a 40-60 foot wall and fairly clean. This lower wall is home to 20+ routes with a grade range of 5.6-5.12. Also it has all types of protection, sport, trad, mixed.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lower Slab