This route is to the right of "Tofu"... Be careful getting to the ledge at the base of the route. Climb the obvious crack. There's good protection all the way.

Palm-U-Granite

Pigs on the Wing

Hot Knife

Porky Pig

Santa's Little Helpers

Pepasan

R. A. F.

Battle of Britain (aka Penelope Street)

Hang Ten

Raging Intensity

Tofu the Dwarf

Swing Low

White Fang

Echo Buttress

Pinky Lee

Helix

Chute Up

Fun With a Gun

The Sound of One Shoe Tapping

W. A. C.

Fun Stuff

This route starts off the ledge system to the right of

Hot Knife

(5.10a). Take care getting to the ledge - that can be a climb in itself. This route is short but fun and has two bolts; getting a foot into the obvious pocket is the challenge.

Begin just left of

Porky Pig

, and climb up to a short, right-slanting crack (pro here), then step up to the first bolt. Make crux slab moves up to a second bolt, where you'll find some bigger edges and a few 5.10 moves, followed by an easy, low angle slab to the top.

A bit gritty and scary up to the second bolt!

This short route has a weird but fun lieback crux near the start.  The crux is unprotected, but near the ground; the climb could be soloed.

Top rope the seam, a few feet left of "Hot Knife".

This south facing face climb is far up in the cove just right of

Hang Ten

. Thin steep edging on sharp painful things past 6 bolts - a tip ripper.

Locate the tall face where The Sound of One Shoe Tapping and W. A. C. converge; this route is on the next rock to the right.

Pepasan starts (and stays) left of the short crack towards the bottom of the rock.  Gain the horizontal (easy climbing), then make a scary, committing, wide step onto a small ledge on the bottom of the face.  Up past three bolts; somewhat runout between second and third.

Locate the tall face where The Sound of One Shoe Tapping and W. A. C. converge; this route is on the second rock to the right.  You can access the top of the rock via a fourth-class gully left of the face.

R. A. F. is the rightmost of two routes that diverge near the first bolt; Penelope Street (aka Battle of Britain), 5.10a/b, is the left of the two.

Nice friction, with the cruxy moves only slightly above bolts.

This is a steep, well-protected thin face.  It was formerly known as Penelope Street.  Start up R.A.F. and then move left.

This is a steep face and crack; not sustained.  It's a bit to the right of Tofu The Dwarf and Palm-u-Granite, and starts from the ground.  Climbing over a small roof is the crux - continue up a groove above.

This route climbs a crack line just right of Fun Stuff and ends at the same chain anchors.  Half way up a horizontal crack is encountered.  Above this is what I want to warn people about.  5-15 feet above the horizontal crack the rock becomes near vertical and very loose.  I felt the rocks shift as I pulled down on them.  The route accepted gear well until the end when the crack flares out and veres to the right. Stay calm and keep moving, fist jams and hidden holds provide access to the summit.

Starts about five feet to right of

R. A. F.

. Climb a ramp to the first bolt on the arete. Follow the remaining bolts to the anchor. Always stay to the right of

R. A. F.

.

On the leftmost edge of the west-facing wall, at the bottom of the gully that leads up to Ben Dover Face, there's a downward pointing V block about 20 ft left of Fun With A Gun.  White Fang ascends the crack that goes up the right side of that tooth-like V block, over a bulge, past easy ledges, and tops out over a small roof.  Gear anchor placements about 15 ft back and TR setup would require long extension.

This is a fun toprope route, with a thin face crux.  It's at the left end of the southwest face of Echo Cove North.

Seen from afar as a striking thin crack, closer inspection reveals this to be a mere seam at the start with somewhat marginal protection. Once past the bouldery start the angle relents and the seam widens into a nice finger crack that eats gear and, unfortunately, is over far too quickly.

Seldom led due to the committing nature of the crux moves - a fall will likely plant you on the sloping ledge at the base, but easily toproped from the anchors of nearby Swing Low.

This is the crack and chimney system right of The Sound of One Shoe Tapping and W. A. C.

The traditional rating is 5.2, but the chimney moves for the exit sequence are probably more 5.4ish.

If you're not leading 5.8 friction, this is a good route to hang a toprope on the aforementioned routes.

Trough to the left of The Sound of One Shoe Tapping and W.A.C.  Easier than Helix (and easier to protect, if you want), this is probably the best bet for climbers who want to hang a toprope on those two 5.8s.

Some scrambling up large flakes and ledges get you into the wide chute for which (I assume) the climb is named.  Solid toe jams and stemming will get you up to just below the chain anchors, and a short step across gets you to the top.

Even at 5.2, this is a pretty fun way to spend 5 or 10 minutes.

Climb up to a low bolt left of

Fun Stuff,

then move right to clip the bolt on that route before heading up the face above to a prominent horizontal crack and a right-facing corner.

Fun Stuff

moves right into the corner while this route continues up the improbable face above on featured rock with surprisingly good gear.

Fun 5.8 friction on gorgeous rock.  Some topos list the rappel from here as 85 feet, but a 50m rope does NOT get you to the ground.  It gets you to a ledge, from which the ten-foot downclimb is not difficult.

Climb smooth slab directly to a single bolt on the face into a leaning, right-facing dihedral that dies out below the top where a few grainy face moves gain the anchors.

Note - The start of this route is somewhat bold with a solitary bolt roughly 20 feet off the ground, which means the lower bolt of

Fun With a Gun

is most often clipped as well.

Description

Protection

Routes in Echo Cove - North Side