Franziska and I had hiked in ahead of Fred Beckey who was coming in from "somewhere" and he had talked about a climb on Pingora he had wanted to do for more than 25 years. It was located about 100 -125 feet to the right of the Daley route. Eventually he hiked into our camp below the proposed route and the next morning we started up.

We three got up to a big obvious ledge under where the wall begins to steepen and facing afternoon thunderstorms retreated to camp that first day. That evening, Dave Madera from Alta, Utah also arrived in camp and Fred suggested we two carry on with the project while he and Franziska serve as ground support while doing some other recon and hiking. Fred has always seemed to prefer hanging with the ladies if the option is available!! They actually scrambled up a new route while Dave I climbed this the next morning.

Pitch #1: Climb approach slabs and low angle right facing dihedrals. 5.5.

Pitch #2: A long pitch continues up to a very prominent sloping ledge that stretches across the North Face. Fred drilled a bolt here while I was leading the next pitch. 5.10. 60m.

Pitch #3: A steeper corner angles right to easier climbing leads to discontinuous cracks and a ledge right of a prominent flake. Face climb right of the corner until it ends, then turn the roof to the right. Good climbing. 5.10.

Pitch #4: Move left passing a fixed piton passing the discontinuous cracks to a corner. 5.7.

Pitch #5: left and up to connect to a steep right facing dihedral system far left. 5.9

Pitch #6: From a good ledge now in a very solid continuous crack and dihedral system, climb straight up this dihedral/corner to a belay on a pedestal. 5.9

Pitch #7: Due to threatening lightning and thunder, some moves of A0 aid/tension were used to climb a wild and exposed inobvious traverse via a thin seam to better cracks to the left. 5.10, A0

Pitch #8: Brief aid from a fixed pin leads to a a nice (5.7) hand crack. 5.7, AO

Pitch #9: Follow a good crack and some face climbing between small ledge features on the wall. 5.9, 60m.

Pitch #10: Scramble up to a big ledge that leads left to more easy ground. 5.5, 60m.

Pitch #11: Continue to the summit of Pingora. 4th class.

We were caught in a full on thunder storm on the exit pitches. As Dave and I descended the East Ledges, wet and cold, we noticed through the fog and mist two people climbing toward us!!! It was Fred and Franziska climbing up to congratulate us and offer us hot tea.

We felt embarrassed that we had indeed Stolen Fred's Thunder, but he was so supportive, and these warm welcoming drinks offered high on Pingora certainly became the highlight of this climb and the trip. It will always be Fred's route.

Stealing Thunder

East Face, Left Side Cracks

The Southerner's

South Buttress

East Ledges

Cirque of the Towers Traverse

Triple Cracks

Northeast Face

Southwest Face Right

Classic Wind River climb! Incredibly consistent, classic, sustained (at the grade) backcountry climbing in the west. Classic enough that it made the 50 classicly crowded climbs book, so expect parties to be in the area vying for the early slot. Be prepared to start early anyway to avoid afternoon t-storms that one can't see until they come over the formation from the southwest. You'll see what the fuss is over, though, with the great views, exposure, and beautiful climbing that every pitch offers. Route finding skills will be put to the test in a couple key locations, and retreat after the first 300 feet will be a challenge.

Head up the 3rd class ramp that heads toward the sloping ledge system, traverse and/or downclimb to reach the ledge, thinking about the 2nd as you place gear. Belay just past the ledge where good pro presents itself in the left leaning ramp that leads to the dihedral with a prominent roof.

Climb the dihedral, either belaying below or after the roof.

Climb a long pitch, starting first right, then back left to a fun 5.8 crack and belay.

Ascend the left leaning system of ledges and dihedral cracks for at least 2 pitches (even with a 60m). The Kelsey topo forgets how long this section is. Going right early will end in a dead end.

Do finally head right with some spaced pro up the ledges until the 5.8 flare and 5.9 3" variation become unmistakable back to the left. Struggle up the flare to easier ground and belay left at the ledge.

Continue straight up, not right, past a large flake and up to belay at the base of a crack leading to a chimney continue up or step again left and continue the crack system to for a long pitch and belay.

Head up to the base of a short chimney with a rattly hand crack in the back. Grunt up this short crux to the east summit ledges platform. Coil the rope and walk to the summit.

Walk/scramble over then down the 3rd class gully to the south to reach the South Face/K cracks rappels (two ropes recommended) 3 or 4 raps lead to the ledge that heads further left to the South Buttress descent.

Great long route up Pingora. Mostly hands to offwidth climbing with some dihedral and a bit of slab. Mostly sustained 5.7 for the first third, then eases up for the middle third, then steep sustained 5.7 with the crux pitches for the last third.

Climb: Climb the lower crack section for about 3-4 pitches depending on how far you stretch it. After this you'll reach a large grassy ledge. Continue following straight up the lower angle cracks to another large ledge for another couple pitches. After this follow steeper hands-slightly offwidth cracks to the top for another 3-4 pitches. Total between 8-12 pitches for about 1400 feet of climbing from bottom to top.

Variations: can bail when level with the South shoulder by scrambling around to the left at the top of the easier climbing just before it kicks up again around pitch 6-8. Can finish on East Ledges for the last 2-3 pitches.

A nice little route with two really nice pitches. This description is for the 5.8 variation, but the route goes at 5.6 also.

Approach: Walk up a well worn trail toward Cirque Lake from the Climber's trail to the west side of the south shoulder. Two well worn trails will cut off to the right to gain the shoulder. Both are about the same exposure and class 3 at most. Continue up the south shoulder until it steepens past class 3.

Pitch 1: Either climb a direct 5.6 start to gain the ledge where the fun climbing begins or cut around to the right of the south shoulder to do some 4th class climbing to start. Some will want to rope up for the 4th class climbing to get to the start. If climbed the direct start, walk around the large ledge to the right to a right facing corner system. If did the 4th class scramble, the right facing corner should be directly above once you gain the ledge.

Pitches 2-3: Climb the right facing corner for one REALLY long pitch or two more reasonable length pitches to the base of the K-cracks which are two cracks for the last pitch that look more like an X.

Pitch 4: For the 5.6 variation head down and left to a dihedral. For the 5.8 variation, head straight up the fine crack (wide to start, then hand/finger). Can either climb the left of the K-cracks for 5.8 or climb the right variation from a little bit lower down for 5.8+. Climb above the rap station to belay from a nice ledge.

Finish: scramble up fairly easy class 3 terrain to the summit

Descent: rappel down the K-cracks and then to climbers left of the route. Clean and replace old tat at the anchors as needed as you go down. 3 rappels with a 70m rope reaches each anchor. A 60m will require some easy but exposed downclimbing to reach the next rap.

Climb up obvious ledges which traverse to climbers right across the east face. If the climbing gets harder than low fifth class, look for an easier way - perhaps even going down for a bit. After about four long pitches you should be at the top of a kind of gully which is below the false summit block on the NE quadrant of Pingora.  From here, the easiest way to the summit is to traverse climbers left along huge ~horizontal slabs until one can round the SE corner (clockwise) into the gully / ramp leading down to the South Buttress rap descent.  Or first head back right and up along that gully / ramp towards the summit.

Alternately, after the four long pitches and at the top of the kind of gully which is below the false summit block, the Bechtel guide shows East Ledges heading more directly up onto the false summit and then rapping off in a direction towards the summit.  We also tried this way although some climbing we found was at least 5.7 ... Lie back up a clean right-facing corner for about 20 feet onto a large sloping ledge.  Then make a few moves up a large crack / weakness but bail rightward / upward along a smaller crack to a smaller but ample sloping ledge that leads right. Move right and then up a huge chimney / alcove by face-climbing on the left side.  After topping out here we found some old rap webbing at a pinch point. Scramble climber's left across the false summit to major weakness and down a few exposed moves to a rap anchor.  Rap, down lead, or free solo the descending ramp.

Note about the alternate finish: NOT "bailing rightward" but instead continuing up the large crack / weakness leads up to another large ledge and to the base of an off width that looked 5.8/5.9 to us - takes 4 to 5 inch gear which we did not have. This off width leads more directly to the rap off the false summit but we backed down to the smaller rightward crack.

As a long-time Sierra climber I feel blasphemous writing this, but the Cirque of the Towers is the most spectacular place I have ever visited.  And what better way to explore it than with a traverse of the 11 major peaks, and that also includes one of the 50 Classic Climbs.

first part of the traverse minus Pingora

second part of the traverse

NOTE ON MY RATING

I rated the traverse based on the easiest path that tags the true summit of each peak while still starting at the S end of the ridge at Pingora and not doing any major deviations from the ridge.  Note that as with any traverse there are variations, as well as some contention around the Shark's Head true summit, which will cause the rating to vary for individual parties. I used Kelsey as the source of truth given his extensive knowledge of the range.

LOGISTICS

Closest Real Town

Pinedale, WY with groceries, gas, brewery, laundry, 4G, library, and showers at the super nice rec center.  If you have time check out the

Museum of the Mountain Man

.  You can also go in from Lander, bu this adds an extra hour to the drive.

Conditions

The Tetons Climbers’ Ranch said they mostly use

NOAA

for the Winds.  With the topology the Cirque tends to be extra cold and storms can creep up on you unexpectedly, so take the forecast with a grain of salt.  Mosquitos are bad at times. I was told to go mid Aug through early Sep, although I’ve been burned on weather in the Tetons in early Sep.

Maps

Wind River Range South

(Beartooth Publishing)

Guide Books

Cirque of the Towers and Deep Lake

(Steve Bechtel)

Wind River Mountains

(Joe Kelsey)

Trailhead Amenities

Bathrooms/campground at the trailhead.  Primitive camping also allowed in established spots along the way.  No bear boxes, but keep food contained.

trailhead amenities

Water

Lots of rivers and lakes along the way and in the cirque, but no water on the ridge unless there’s snow to melt.

Backcountry Camping

There are many established primitive campsites in the Cirque.  Please keep the area pristine with leave no trace ethics.

Traverse Tips

If any of the rock seems crappy you’re off-route.  The raps tend to be directly above whatever notch separates your next objective with the exception of the ones off of Wolf’s Head.  Be prepared for many raps.  Route-finding is fairly straightforward compared to some of the Sierra traverses.

ROUTE

Pingora (S Buttress, 5.6 or 5.8)

Most people start the traverse with the

S Buttress of Pingora

(5.6 or 5.8 with the K Cracks variation).  Approach the route from the left side of the S shoulder via 3rd class ramps.  The route starts on top of the shoulder where the main formation steepens.

S Buttress of Pingora

Wolf's Head (E Ridge, 5.6)

After the Pingora summit drop down to the raps stations to the west into the notch between Pingora and Wolf's Head.

Don’t use the normal S Buttress raps.

Staying on the S side take the ledge system (4th) until you join the

Wolf’s Head E Ridge

. Follow the beautifully exposed E Ridge to the summit.  If you like Matthes Crest you'll love this route.  It's deservedly in the 50 Classics.

the spectacular E Ridge of Wolf's Head

Overhanging Tower (NW Ridge/W Face, class 4)

There are many ways to descend from the summit, but the goal is to rap to the west until you can hike south to the gully in between Wolfs Head and Overhanging tower. I mostly downclimbed this.  From the notch take the

NW Ridge/W Face

route to the summit.

Overhanging Tower from Wolf's Head

Shark's Nose (N summit via NW Buttress, 5.6; S summit 5.8)

Downclimb (5.5) or rap from the summit into the notch separating Overhanging Tower from Shark's Tooth.  There seems to be some disagreement between Kelsey and Bechtel as to the true summit; Kelsey says it's the N one, Bechtel the S.  At least some of the former speed record holders only did the N so take your pick.

From the notch head up the higher of two ramps. At this point I continued trending right passing some rap lines, then up past a piton. I ended up at the base of a fairly committing rightward slanting crack (5.6).  After the crack continue up easier terrain to the summit.

Traverse the ridge toward the S summit.  The 5.8 section, although a boulder problem, is super exposed and burly.  I suspect most people will want a rope here even if you soloed the rest.

Shark's Nose

Block Tower (E Ridge, 5.5)

If you did the S summit rap down into the notch between Shark's Nose and Block Tower. From the N summit head along the ridge to the S summit until you're able to set up a pendulum over to easier ground on the W side (obvious ramp).  There were older anchors here, but they had been cut.  The ramp linked me into the S summit raps.  There are other rap options directly off the N summit, but this seemed more direct.

From the notch take the 4th class ramp until you reach a 5.5 chimney on the E Face. Take this to the summit.

Block Tower summit

Watchtower (class C for crappy slog)

From Block Tower rap into the notch at the base of Watchtower.  The easiest way is to slog up the gully just to climber's right of Watchtower until you top out on flatter, more stable ground to reach the summit.

S Watchtower, Pylon Peak, Warrior II, Warrior I, Warbonnet

At this point you're mostly hiking with a little bit of scrambling as you tag the summits around the cirque.

the hiking part of the traverse

very approximate route

South Buttress left, West. Climb rappell route in left facing system to crux 'Triple Cracks" very thin cracks in slab to crescent shaped right facing corner. Poor protection but excellent rock quality at the crux start. It is also possible to not climb the crux triple cracks and climb the corner to the right which also gains the pretty crescent shaped corner 5.10-

Interesting 4 or 5 pitch line left of the more popular South Buttress line.

P1 5.7, easy R facing corner to the top of a flake, very featured rock and takes great pro.

P2 5.8, thin crack leads to some awkward moves and then over some stacked blocks to a comfortable belay.  TCU's are good for the first 20+ feet.  Best pitch on the route in my opinion.

P3 5.7, left trending corner system obvious from below.  Semi-groveling, semi-flared system.  Actually easier than it appears.  You can protect it with small to medium cams.  I carried and 2 and 3 camalot but never place either.  Long pitch of about 190 feet to alcove below small triangular roof.

P4 5.9, Crux pitch, hardest moves right off the belay to a fun move around the roof above, huge hold for you left hand.  Continue up to a big ledge and belay.  From here you can continue up through a steep slot or bail to the right

You can move right about 100 feet to the rap anchors at the top of the S. Buttress route.  We did this as the slot looked unpleasant and another climber said there was a scary, loose block in the slot.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Pingora