This route follows a broken face via intermittent gear and bolts and finishes up a crack on the slabby headwall.

The Mess

Candy Striper

The Pika Strikes Back

Blue Lightning

Dragons in the Desert

No Escape

Lucy in the Sky With Diamonds

Murder Train

Purple Haze

Down the Rabbit Hole

Cheshire Cat

Flying Purple People Eater

The Glass Menagerie

House of Cards

Dope On a Rope

Black Canary

Shattered Reality

Queen of Hearts

Fantasia

Hank's Death Star

Blue Lightning begins in a right-facing corner that protects with C3s.  From the end of the corner, continue up the bolt-protected technical crux to the technically easier but mental crux of the route: a beautiful, zigzagging, splitter seam that is protected by 2 blue Ballnuts.  The seam climbing is only 5.9 but keeps you on your toes.

This is a fun sport route with a distinct crux through a bulge.

Begin on a steep, juggy face, and continue up through some thoughtful terrain to the obvious bulge.  Pull through the bulge to easier climbing above.

Pika follows bolts up a red pillar to a ledge below a small roof.  Plug in a finger-sized cam in the roof, and move up and left to regain the bolt line.  Finish up a mellow slab to the anchor.

The 1st half of this route is amazing and packs a punch.  Begin up a steep, open book corner clipping bolts.  Punch through the roof, and traverse right on a finger flake to an irregular but easy crack in black rock.

Begin up some easier terrain to a steep open book corner with bolts.  Follow bolts up the corner, trend left, and finish up the steep pocketed face above to the

Murder Train

anchor. This might be more difficult for short people.

This was the 1st route established on the wall and one of the best.  Begin by fishing in a nut or small cam into the left-facing corner.  Once established in the corner, follow bolts up the beautiful corner to a small ledge.  Continue up the steep, reachy, pocketed face above to the anchor.

Climb over a steep block with a bolt to gain a ledge below a corner with a crack.  Continue up the corner to a roof and hand traverse left along a crack to another corner and hands free rest.  Finish on a steep pocketed face with bolts.

Begin on a large flake with a pillar behind you.  Climb the thin cracks up to a roof, and pass the roof to a hand crack that widens to OW before the chains.

This route begins at the top of the loose drainage right of

The Mess

.  Climb wide hands to OW to a ledge, and continue up into a squeeze with a hand crack flake.

This route climbs the crack system immediately right of

House of Cards

.  From the ledge, climb thin cracks, and stem to gain a good stance below the roof.  Pull the roof (crux), and continue up the pocketed face above clipping one bolt.

This route is a bit of a mental test piece (at least for me).  The 1st half climbs an awesome stemming and compression corner on really small gear (ballnuts and C3s), while the second half is mellower climbing that follows spaced out bolts on the slab above.

The gear and rock is really good, be brave!

This is a great sport route with a little bit of everything.

Climb ~15 feet of funky basalt to gain the steep slab below the roof.  Stem and compress up under the roof and traverse left on seams and edges to clip the next bolt.  Continue up on thin holds with great movement to a jug and finish up a slab to the

Flying Purple People Eater

anchor.

House of Cards begins in the same weakness/crack as

Queen of Hearts

.  From the ledge above the weakness, trend right, and climb up the crack/flake that becomes OW.  Be cautious placing gear in this section as the flake is detached.  Continue up crack and face to gain the anchor.

To access this route, scramble up the loose ramp to the right of

No Escape

.  Climb onto a pillar where you can place a finger-sized cam.  Continue up steep and varied climbing passing 6 bolts to a two bolt anchor.  If you go right at the 1st bolt, the climbing is 5.11 to make the 2nd clip.

Begin on a short splitter just right of

Fantasia

.  Continue up via discontinuous cracks and face climbing to a pocketed face with bolts.

This trad line starts with a finger crack in pocketed stone and turns into thin hands above the ledge.  Continue up via OW and varied jamming/stemming to the chains.

This trad line climbs some nebulous rock to gain the short, beautiful splitter in the red pillar.  Continue past the pillar up a fun corner to the chains.

This is a great line with two distinct cruxes.

Begin below and imposing roof on a slab and clip a couple bolts.  Boulder up into the bulge, clip another bolt, and pull onto a ledge and hands free rest.  From the rest, head up and right into another devious bulge, and finish up a slab with stemming before the anchor.

This lackluster trad line is the rightmost route on the wall.  Climb onto the big ledge, and follow the right-trending flake to the anchor.

Description

Protection

Routes in Kaleidoscope Wall