A stellar traverse.  Start on the right side of the wall under 'My Heart Grew Wings...' and traverse left on pockets to finish up on 'Wills' Arete'.  Very pumpy.  Feels like a 5.13 route for sure.

Less Poetry Please

Every Color You Are

Tie Me Up With Kindness

Flabmaster

Mister Witty

Dove Direct

My Heart Grew Wings Under Desert Skies

Morning Dove White

Tall Wall Left

Grotesque Old Woman

Take the Force of the Blow

Tall Wall Middle

Wills Arete

This Is How We Do It...

A fine boulder problem with a stiff start, a nice rest and an exciting finish.

Start with pockets down low under the giant, obvious hueco.  Use pockets and edges to make a couple stout moves to gain the jug in the giant hueco (crux).  Move up on edges and jugs to the topout.  Don't pull too hard above the big hueco, as the holds may be loose, some are hollow and it's fairly high.

Crouch start on the left side of the prow.   Follow good finger pockets to a long move to gain a good hold above the lip.   Match on this and traverse right passing a deep slot/crack.   Continue right with a hard sequence of moves to pull up and right to gain the good deep flake.

Finish direct.

On the far left of the North facing side, left of Grotesque Old Woman, start on pockets and climb up hidden holds to gain the left arete and top out.

An awesome two move power problem!

Sit start on two sloper crimps. Pull on and use what core you have to keep your feet on the wall. Make a hard toss left hand to a sloper on the lip, keep your feet on and dyno up right to another sloper. Use the foot cut to your advantage and swing a toe to a big foot out right. Come in for the match and top her out.

Better than it looks! Cool weather might be helpful..

A great problem that leads you into temptation.

Start with hands in good pockets. Rock up and over left with a tricky move to gain a thin flake for the left hand. Balance your way up the wall to gain the small slots.

With fingers in the slots launch for the good lip.

https://www.youtube.com/LRLvhuM_9NI

The direct version to morning dove white. Hang start on bad pockets and either campus or use very poor feet to get to a left hand mono. Squeeze two fingers in if you can! Set feet and make a big move right to a good pocket. Make a heinous cross to another pocket and continue up and finish as for morning dove white.

Pockets.  Start on the lowest pockets just right of the vertical seam.  Traverse left on pockets, then up to a hard move to and from a bad crimp, and continue up to the horizontal crack and easier ground.

Tall and sharp.

Climb the left side of the wall using sharp edges, dishes and pockets.  Not as good as it's neighbor to the right, but you might as well climb it while you're there...

Start with fingers in pockets.  Move up and slightly left passing two shallow sidepulls.

Start with fingers at head height.    Make a hard pull to gain a hold up and right.    Press on through here to better holds above.

Highball.

Stand-start high with good edges on the vertical wall.  Make a big stretch up and right to a big square-cut sidepull, and head up on edges, OR go straight up from the starting holds on crimps and sidepulls.  Slightly easier moves lead up to the safety of the big horizontal crack at 25 feet, followed by a few more feet of easy ground.  The opening sequences feel like the physical crux, but you get off the deck real quick on this thing and the moves continue to be committing.  Very heady, keep it togetha!

Move easily up and left toward the arete till the pockets run out. Paw at the arete with your left hand and set your feet to bust the big move to the sidepull way up and around the arete. A couple more insecure moves gains a good horizontal and easier climbing to the top. Problem would get 3 stars if it was not squeezed in a corner making you feel like you're going to hit stuff if you blow it, though you shouldn't hit anything.

Thin, reachy moves down low lead to a balancy, technical  section high off the ground.

Description

Protection

Routes in Desert Skies/Morning Dove Area