Balancy moves lead into a shallow right-facing corner and the start of the drill flute where interesting movement gains a small ledge below the crux at the 5th bolt. The reachy and somewhat bouldery crux is out of character with the rest of the climb as you continue up the drill flute with steep and sustained climbing along flakes, edges and jugs all the way to the anchors.

Since this route is over 100' long it's common to L-P-L to get down - lower down to the midpoint anchors, pull your rope, and then lower again to the ground.

Rocky

Forbidden Fruit

Momentum

Magic Mushroom

Wages of Sin

Sins of the Flesh

Sky Pilot

Seduction

Cavorting

Original Sin

A Handful of Harpies

Taboo

Violator

Solidarity

Bouldery first 2 bolts to crux decision at the 4th bolt.  The climbing get easier past a midpoint lowering anchor and then pump and a little crux over some bulges at the top.  Rope drag through 19 draws also adds to the excitement up top.  Bring a drink and snack for the sit down ledge half-way up.

A classic for the area.  Stem your way up the left-facing dihedral. Tricky moves lead to a rest before the steep face above.  Fire through awesome steep moves to a gold-corner.  Super fun liebacking leads to a rest before the final bulge to the anchors.  150 feet.  Like many of the longer routes at the quarry you must lower to a midway anchor, pull your rope and then lower to the ground from the midway station.

Balancy throughout with on your feet climbing and lots of technical movement with the crux down low as you slap your way up the slippery arete. The finish is memorable - a rounded mantle that feels further above the last bolt than it really is.

Great climbing on this route that's quite different in character than the usual enduro jug hauls and steep crimpfests. It's probably best to climb this on cooler days lest the climb feel any more insecure than it already is.

Start on laybacks and head left at the second bolt on crimps towards a dynamic crux after the third bolt. Continue upwards on good holds but at times poor feet. Route favors taller climbers.

Bouldery start left of

Original Sin

. Then get ready to crimp. After bolt 3 it gets thin. Work through a technical and delicate crux to a big move finally. This route feels a bit run-out for Riverside, but the falls are very clean (except for the fall between 2 and 3). To be honest when trying to redpoint you are glad there are not more bolts to clip. Small holds.

This is arguably one of the better hard 5.12s at the quarry. Start on easy climbing up to a low crux going over the bulge, the climbing here is fairly sustained until completing the mantel. After a typical quarry style rest on a ledge, climb up several feet to a second shorter and more powerful crux. Easier climbing brings one up to the arete next to taboo. The final crux adds a lot of character to the route. The movement is fun and exposed. Unfortunately, the bolting is a bit odd in this section. An easier and thought provoking featured slab leads to the anchors.

Start this climb right of

Violator

(5.11c), at the bottom on a thin flake crack.

Climb the crack with little trouble then rest before the climbing gets steeper.   Move up the steep prow of rock and then right to a good hold and a ledge.   Make a tricky move to gain a standing position on the ledge and then shuffle back left to the obvious line of thin holds up the wall above.

At the top of the wall mantle up onto the no hands resting ledge.  Muster your strength and start the second crux section via some side pulls until possible to move right into a corner and up.

Step left and then climb the steep wall on better holds to the slopping ledge and final mantle.

Fun little route, starts just left of the Anarchy symbol on the rock, up the splitter flakes. If memory serves me correctly the crux move is at near the top when you have to mantle on a sloping slab with small ballancy feet.

This climb follows a series of chipped 2-3 finger pockets up an overhanging wall. It is very pumpy and very fun. I highly recommend you climb this route, even though it is fabricated you will be thoroughly thrashed by the top.

The low-angled slab climbing at the start doesn't fully prepare you for the committing fingertip mantle at mid-height, while the upper face (crux) is the real attraction, as it features long reaches between thin but positive holds on a slight bulge.

A worthwhile route if in the area that's steeper and has more features at the crux than it's neighbors to either side.

This climb desereves to be recognized! Brilliant, difficult climbing in a perfect stemming corner with great rock. Starts with blocky bolt protected face climbing off the belay ledge, then the climb gains another ledge at the base of a vertical corner with a crisp fingercrack.  Stems and liebacks get one through the start to another stance midway, then this thing gets suprisingly steep and the crack gets thin! About a body length of powerful moves and desperate stems will see you through this steep bit, and then you face the pumping off-fingers lieback finish.

One of the best...better than 4 stars...brilliant!

Start up a short section of easy slab to the base of a left-facing flake system which is jammed/liebacked to a cruxy sequence transitioning into another flake system; being tall helps, as does good technique. Once established in the upper flake race the pump as you climb the spectacular flake system, finishing with a second crux as you work fingery edges up and left, and then back right to anchors on a large ledge.

Athletic and pumpy with great positioning which makes this route a highly recommended route for the grade and also serves as an ideal warm-up for the harder lines in the area.

There is an extension route to this called Wicked Violator (5.13a)**** - 17 bolts to anchors.

We only climbed to the first anchor, which is at approx 100". We did some extensive brushing, as the route was absolutely filthy. The extension looked worse but possibly good climbing.

To the first anchor felt mid 5.12, with a defined crux 1/3 of the way up moving in/out and across a shallow depression. It's very difficult to hang a draw on the bolt at the top of the crux.

We thought that it climbs quite well...after we cleaned it ;-)

There are a couple drilled holds and some glue but surprisingly not a ridiculous amount of choss. Although, still be careful at a couple jugs and off route footholds here and there.

I'm posting the route in hopes others climb it to keep it clean and perhaps clean the upper part!!!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (m) Taboo Area