Start by stemming between the two sections of the tower. There's no pro for the first little bit, but it's super easy. Clip two drilled pitons on the main formation and then step across, do a couple moves, and you're at the anchors.

See topo pic.

Original Route

Sand In My Pants

Start on the south edge of the tower and climb 5.7 to a ledge. Then comes the one and only aid move. Stick a lousy cam into a flaring crack (maybe offset cams would work a lot better!), pray that it won't pull, and step up on it. Hope the piece holds, and don't slip, because a fall will land you unpleasantly on the ledge. Once past that move, sling the funky horn with a cordalette, make a couple moves and sling another horn with a regular-length sling. Then comes the free climbing crux. It involves a slopey, sandy 5.8 mantle. If you fall, you'll pendulum down and left... After the mantle you can clip the anchors.

See topo pic for more beta.

As far as I know, this is a new route. If not, let me know and I'll fix it. Not that it means much in the Fishers, but the cracks were very dirty and muddy before I cleaned them out a bit, making me think that it probably hasn't been climbed before. The aid move could perhaps be freed without too much difficulty, but it sure would be scary above that ledge...

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Carson's Tower