20 ft to the right of Smears For Fears start in some featured rock below a shallow right facing dihedral. Gain the bolted face above that.

Rojo

Lebanese NoNo

Grumblefish

Romeo Charlie

Lebanese JoJo

Smears for Fears

One of the sweetest slab routes in red Rocks. Even though this is bolted one should view it as a trad climb as the bolts are fairly far apart and were put in on lead at available stances. The first crux comes about 15 feet up. The next crux is clipping and climbing above the last bolt. Long fall potential here if you skitter off. Once you get your hands on the ledge a quick mantle will slow the heart rate back down and easy 5th class to the anchor.

Right-facing corner left of the true start of Lebanese JoJo.  It can be used as an alternate start to JoJo.  The crux is at the bottom.  I'm sure this has been done before but its not in the Handren book.

Although it's called Grumblefish, it might also be called Crumblefish (groan!). Left of the Smears for Fears slab is a large, crumbly looking right-facing corner. Don't worry, it's about as crumbly as it looks. And don't worry, you'll be fine. Start slightly right on two bolts past some wafers on the left. Continue up the corner with good gear part some funky holds and vegetation. Eventually step right to hit the Smears for Fears anchors. A fun route to do because of the wonky holds on it. Also a good way to put a top rope on Smears for Fears if you want to check it out.

Climb a right-slanting crack for about 30' to a rounded arete.  Climb straight up the rounded arete and the face to the right on excellent varnish.  Follow the features placing pro where you can until pulling onto a low-angle slab at about 100ft.  A 30ft. runout on easy slab brings you to a two-bolt anchor.  The climbing on Romeo is excellent and technical, but the well-spaced gear makes for a somewhat serious and proud lead.  If you're a solid 5.10 RR leader go for it!

This is a strange route featuring a fun, airy traverse with excellent rock. 

  Pitch 1: Rope up and climb the obvious weakness on the left side of the roof - a overhanging, juggy right-facing corner. There are two bolts here. Belay at the large pine tree. 

  Pitch 2: Traverse directly right, using a horizontal crack for your feet and disappear from the sight of your belayer. Continue traversing past a bolt to a small belay station (1 bolt, one fixed nut). Head up the seam here and follow it through a roof and past a fist crack to the anchor (fixed nuts, slings) at the top of the climb. Rappel once from here with two ropes. 

  Variation: From the small belay station (1 bolt, one nut) you can continue traversing and head up from another point of your choosing. There are at least three vertical cracks you can take to the top, each of similar difficulty.

This area offers shady black varnish for a hot summer day with local test pieces Smears for Fears and Rojo. It is located on the right flank of Frigid Air Buttress.

Description

Protection

Routes in Smears for Fears Area