Consistent climbing through up a crack of widely varying widths, although crack climbing technique is not really necessary at any point on this route.

Kitty Loves Pickles

Terrible Dragon

Snozzle

Bully Bobcat

More Fun Than Three Monkeys in a Bananamobile

Fingers the Octopus

Sergeant Murphy

Huckle Cat

Future Primitive

Pie Rats Ahoy

Babykins

Officer Flossie

Baron Von Crow

Babooby

Mr. Humperdink

Scott Ain't Got Time For That

Mr. Fixit (Breaks Santa's Sleigh)

Rudolf von Flugel Loops the Loops

Mr. Gronkle's Giveaway

Wonder Showzen

5 Seater Pencil Car

Goldbug

Bear Hugging Big Hilda

Heehaw Donkey

Lowly Worm's Applecopter Express

Dingo Dog

Mistress Mouse

Beverly Baboon

There is a great hold in the crack to the left of the first bolt that is great for clipping the high first bolt. Taking the direct line up the front of the blunt arête makes for harder climbing than the right face of the arête. The crux is near the second bolt. 

  This route, as well as the next three can be accessed from the top by scrambling (4th class) behind the large boulder pile above Big Hilda, but its not as easy to set up top ropes on these as it is for the routes to the left as you face the wall. One should probably set up a rappel anchor to do this and exercise caution.

Crux is at the 2nd to 3rd bolt. It is easier for taller people. This has a bouldery start, a delicate middle section, and an easy finish.

Short boulder problem followed by much easier climbing above

Until you figure out the beta for this route you might hate it, or be frustrated by it, but once you figure it out, it will likely become one of your favorites at Scarry Wall. It's got a bit of everything packed into a short boulder problem (underclings, slopers, crimps, two knee bars, and a committing finish to the bulge).

Quality climbing with interesting moves. Thinner face climbing below, followed by hand jams and stemming, with slab climbing at the top. Be careful about rope management around the fourth bolt, when transitioning across the large cracks. Keep your right foot from being on the wrong side of the rope as you make the transition to the upper face. The left leaning crack at the bottom can also be led on gear to then join the bolted route for the top.

Lean across from the large rock to clip the first bolt. Fun route with some interesting moves.

Fun climbing on big holds and ledges to a slightly tricky slab section 3/4 of the way up

Straightforward climbing with plenty of holds and rests, minor crux 2/3 of the way up.

Fun climbing, perfect for kids or a first lead. Note: Consensus grade among four-year-olds is 5.17

The route has an easy first clip and then crux right stepping moves above the first bolt going to the second. Continue up and large huecos are found climbing over the small bulge.

The crux is above the second bolt where there is a long reach to the left.  The climb becomes easier as one climbs higher.

Begin in the large left leaning gap and climb to the top of a small ledge about eight feet up. The first bolt can be reached from the top of the ledge. The grade varies depending on how far up the gap one continues. Climbing straight up is more challenging. 

  Caution: Stay away from the large boulders perched on the ledge below the anchors to the left of Babykins. They're not on the route, but when lowering, the climber passes next to them.

Interesting crux about a quarter of the way up with a gaston and side pull. The rest is typical low angle slab climbing.

Jugs to gain the first ledge then an engaging, reachy sidepull gets you established above the first bump out. Easier climbing past this crux with large holds. Low-angle runout slab to the top.

V0 boulder problem to get established on the ledge above the first bolt, then an interesting move to reach the large horizontal flake jug, to an easier finish. A good warm up if you're gearing up for the sporty climbs in the right most section of Scarry Wall

Low angle climbing, with ledges following a crack that runs the length of the route. Shares an anchor with Goldbug, the bolted sport route to the right of it.

This is a fun juggy sport route.  It reminds one of an indoor sport climb.  The crux is above the second bolt.  Keep climbing and the holds will appear.

A sequence of three or four low grade dihedral boulder problems with large rest ledges between.

Consistent 5.7 climbing, with a crux move just after the third bolt. The anchors of this route also make for an excellent place to practice rappelling due to a comfortable stance on a ledge below the anchors.

Tricky start to a highish first bolt. A little more business passing bolt 3 and then a cruise to the top. You may want to bring some slings to extend the anchor to reduce drag setting a top rope.

Another fun climb with great holds. Good footwork will get you through the crux between the first and second bolt.

Fun climbing, more thought-provoking than it looks from the ground. One can either start directly in front of the subtle bulge or ease into the route from the right. The crux is after the second bolt on thin hand holds, but good feet.

Starts with some tricky moves through a couple large scoops. Then fairly straightforward 5.6 slab climbing above.

There are lots of variations one can take for this line. Staying left at the bottom and the top is harder (5.8) while the easier lines are on the right side. The spacing between bolts 3 and 4 is long, but the moves are easy with big holds. The crux is at the fourth bolt.

One of the easier lines in the first section of climbing. Consistent low angle slab movement.

Easier for taller people and those that wander left and right of the bolt line. Although blank looking from the ground, the middle section has some nice pockets and a couple crimper flakes that provide some nice holds by the third bolt.

Consistently fun climbing with great protection. This route makes for an excellent first lead.

Scarry Wall (a.k.a. Hidden Wall, a.k.a. Gateway Wall) [Topo .pdf] consists of a handful of easy sport and trad slab routes. The rock quality is generally stable. A lot of route cleaning has been done, but caution should be exercised when accessing top anchors as to not drop loose rock on people below. This crag is perfect for the aspiring lead climber as it has several routes grade 5.9 and under, and it's well protected. The base of the climbing is flat, shaded by bushes, and makes a great place for kids and dogs to run around.Don't be fooled by the crag's name, which is in honor of the children's book author Richard Scarry. Many of the route are named after his characters. This wall is anything but scary.Abridged History (thanks to Bob Broilo): Most of these lines were done on natural pro in the 90's by climbers such as Andy Mayer or Talon Newton, and more recently, Victor Alvidrez and Bob Broilo. On one of them (named "Sangre de Andy" for the blood stain that marked the bottom for years) Andy Mayer almost died when a hold broke sending him crashing 40' feet down the rock, stopping 6-8 feet from the ground! Andy returned later to send the line. Some of these routes have also been bouldered (boldly) or soloed. Since the specifics of much of this history has been lost, the FAs are listed as those who established permanent anchors on the routes with full recognition that all of these lines have been done many times before.The initial development involved three bolted sport lines installed on the far right side of the crag, established by Scott Roberts, Bob Broilo, Katie Sauer, and Jason Hebert. John Laing and Dan Turner bolted several more in the spring of 2015, followed by a handful of additions by Vaino Kodas and doni. Six more routes were added in various spots among the crag by Lin Robinson, John Laing and Dan Turner in the Winter of 2017.There is a V3+ traverse called Sangre de Lizard that traverses all the major rock outcrops. Bring water and comfy shoes...

Scarry Wall Topo

Routes as viewed from above

 

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Scarry Wall