This is the second route from the right on the Detox wall, and shares the top anchor and top three bolts with Betty Ford's Route (5.9).

Climb up fun, but hard face climbing for the first two bolts, and then into a much needed rest below a small roof.  Pull the roof, and keep heading up the face through run out, but simple climbing until the climb meets up with Betty Ford's route, with which it shares the last 3 bolts.

The crux, depending on who you ask, is either pulling the roof, or clipping the second draw.

Daily Prayer

Fallen Spirits

Jonesin'

With Draws

Intervention

Betty Ford's Route

Methadone

Unknown

Loading Dose

Straight Jacket

This is the leftmost route of the lower section of Detox Wall,  and starts in the wide chimney to the right of the easy face leading up to the rest of the wall.

As bolts read, it is the third route from the right.

Climb up 3 bolts using hands that aren't as good as you'd like, and then into a slopey crux move that puts you on top of the roof.  Once over the roof, climbing on the last four bolts is simple, 5.6 at best.

Fallen Spirits is the second climb from the right on the ledge where most of the Detox Wall's climbs begin.As with most of the climbs on the wall, Fallen Spirits is pretty sustained and uses a series of weathered cracks for most of the holds.  A major difficulty is merely determining which crack is best for each section of the climb, which is why its often considered an 11d on lead.

Ascend the left-facing wall up to the ledge where most of the climbs on Detox Wall begin.  Great incut holds appear everywhere you want them, though they're not very apparent from the ground.

This is the left-most route at the area, with shiny bolts.  The painted bolts on the arete to the right are

Unknown

.

The second climb from the left on Detox Wall, With Draws ascends a series of granite cracks weathered so much that they act mostly as slopers.  Fortunately, there are other holds on the face to supplement these cracks.  The crux is pretty long and is located near the 3rd bolt.

A really fun moderate route with one short section of 5.9 climbing. The entire route climbs highly featured and unique granite. Folks climbing at or near the grade should be aware that there is a 20 foot runout a bolt or two after the crux. A fall here would see you crashing hard onto slabby and off-vertical rock below. Nonetheless, this runout is on 5.0 and highly featured (and low angle) climbing and thus I don't think the route warrants an 'R' rating.

The Betty Ford Route shares its anchor with Daily Prayer (Betty Ford was the original route and Daily Prayer was set to merge into the already existing route).

The left-most bolted climb on the upper ledge of Detox Wall (above Jonesin'), Methadone is a fun route that just doesn't stop.  The crux is right at the second bolt, but the climb continues to be sustained all the way to the end.  Most of the challenge is simply route finding as a lot of lateral movement is required to do the route as a .10a.

Methadone is always worth warming up on before moving right to the tougher climbs on the wall.

This route lies about 10-15 feet right of Jonesin', with which it shares an anchor.  Follow the rounded arete for about 50 feet past 5 orange bolt hangers to the anchors.

Cool movement up the arete if you don't mind some lichen.  I found it more difficult than Jonesin', but not sure of the grade.

Located just right of With Draws in the dead middle of Detox Wall, Loading Dose ascends a steep face to a horizontal crack, then proceed up and right past an overhanging block.  From there, the climb become less steep as you climb past the final bolt on a right-facing wall.Both face and crack moves prove necessary at the crux.

The right-most climb on the platform of the main Detox Wall, Straight Jacket begins in a diagnal slopey finger crack past the first two bolts.  It moves right to a slightly wider crack, parallel to the first, then finally through a third crack over the crux bulge to the anchors.

Some would think the crux move must be done dynamically, but it doesn't.

Description

Protection

Routes in Detox Wall