Climbs a big corner on the lower wall, then left on the main ledge to join the Beckey route (Time Warp) for the upper section.

AAJ story:

​

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197135002/North-America-United-States-California-Sierra-Nevada-Tehipite-Dome-Southwest-Face

​​​

Tehipite Dome - Southwest Face (Kroger)

Astro-Gil

One For The Homies

Wilderness Serenity

The Tehipite Sanction

One for the Ladies

In the Niche of Time

Too Hip

Tehipite Dome - North Ridge

Wall of Ages

Time Warp (Beckey)

The route includes several steep aid pitches near a big arete on the lower part, and includes 5.10 wide cracks above the main ledge.

AAJ story:

​

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199819005/North-America-United-States-California-Sierra-Nevada-Tehipite-Dome-Southwest-Face-In-the-Niche-of-Time

​​​

Full first ascent story, from E.C. Joe's archived blog (missing photos, sorry):

https://web.archive.org/web/20180220032016/

vertical20.com/tehipite-dom…

The route climbs the southeast buttress of Tehipite Dome.  The lower half of the route features stellar crack climbing, while the upper half features mixed crack and face climbing.  The route was established in honor of our friends Gil Weiss and Ben Horne, who died in July 2012 after establishing a new route on Paclaraju Oeste, Peru.  !Vamos El Cumbre!

P1: fingers and hands (40m, 5.10)

P2: "Gil Weiss Memorial Offwidth".  Hands to squeeze to stacks, ends on a stance (62m, 5.10+)

P3: Step right and climb the left facing corner  to a stance belay(30m, 5.10+)

P4: Continue up the corner.  Where it gets thin, step left to a horizontal and then back right. (30m, 5.11)

P5: Lower angle hands leads to the "Ledge of Repair" (60m, 5.8).

P6: Follow cracks up the prow, then traverse left past 2 bolts (50m, 5.11) and then continue up to the belay right of a large block

P7: Tunnel behind the block, clip a bolt, then face climb until a face crux (bolt) near the anchor (50m, 5.10+)

P8: Honey Badger Traverse.   Climb flakes to a 3 bolt leftwards rising traverse , then move left and up to the belay (50m, 5.10+).

P9: Continue up the right facing corner and over a small roof (40m, 5.7)

P10: Face climb past 2 bolts to a belay (30m, 5.8)

P11: Climb the arch and exit at it's apex (50m, 5.9) then up a slab to the top.

This route is named in honor of friends and family lost this past year.

One for the Homies is an excellent corner/crack system with the crux “Weenie Juice Roof” midway. Continue up the corner, then for the last  pitch negotiate the final roof and clip the “one for the homies” bolt before the nebulous slabs to the summit.

Climbs the lower apron.

My guess is that it is right of the Kroger approach gully, but left of Wall of Ages.

1. right facing corner to 5.10a crack, belay at tree

2. groove, undercling left to left facing corner, belay at two trees

3. 5.8 left leaning groove past right side of small roof, then groove continues right to 5.10b face moves, belay under large roof

4. 5.10a roof, then up and right on 5.8 face and crack to large ledge

5. diagonal right to a 5.8 roof, then 5.6 face to a tree

11 pitches (1200') below the main ledge, then apparently joins Too Hip for the final 6 pitches (1200').

The lower route can be approached by rapping down the route from the main ledge, and it was worked that way on the first ascent.

If approaching from below, scramble up ledges for a few hundred feet, to a 1 bolt belay on a ledge.

1. 5.9 corner with some bushes to a bolt belay.

2. 5.12

3. 5.11- cool dihedral with bolt and pin at the blank sections

4. 5.11 triple roof to 150' of 3-4" crack, including an 80' section of dead vertical 3.5"

5. 5.13- bouldery start to long thin crack in corner.

6. 5.11 techy slab

10. 5.10+ steep black corner

11. 5.8 corner

AAJ story:

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12201109200/Tehipite-Dome-Tehipite-Sanction

See additional photos in Rob Pizem's blog:

http://pizem.blogspot.com/2010/08/tehipite-dome-part-1.html

http://pizem.blogspot.com/2010/08/tehipite-trip-contd.html

http://pizem.blogspot.com/2010/08/tehipite-climbing.html

http://pizem.blogspot.com/2010/11/california-summer-aka-tehipite-dome.html

One for the Ladies is an excellent back country wall climb. The first four pitches were aided, while the remaining pitches are excellent free pitches! Somewhat similar to the south face of Washington column, easy aid to excellent free climbing with a nice ledge. Named in honor of the strong women in our lives.

Strong morning sun goes into the shade a little after 1pm.

P1) start up an OW to a bolt and face climb the thin flake to the right passing four bolts before climbing up a right leaning crack to a two bolt anchor. 150ft 5.8 C1 some dirt.

P2) move left off the anchor up the center discontinuous and once dirty cracks before moving right to a fixed pin. Lower around the corner to the belay ledge just past a bolt. A1/C2 150 ft

P3) up into the overhanging corner and under the roof arriving at a two bolt belay. Steep! C1+ 150ft

P4) out the roof up a short bolt ladder to a flake(mind the blocks inside) then moving right to a stance with finger a crack. 80ft

P5) Up the crack thru a roof and stem up past some stacked blocks ending at a ledge. We cat napped here. 5.9 100ft (might be possible to link 4+5)

P6) 4am Crack-up the offwidth/chimney to a plush ledge. Wish we napped here.100ft 5.9

P7) up into “the Womb” exiting at the top to a stance. 5.9 180ft fantastic climbing.

P8) continue up the corner exiting out a heroic roof onto the head wall, questing plus traversing up to a bolt and belaying on a floating flake of mystery. Look down! 5.8 180ft

P9) leave the floating mystery flake and traverse right on a golden knobby sidewalk past two bolts intersecting a short crack and up to a two bolt anchor. 5.4 plus silly awesome sky walking 100ft ( you can traverse right into Astro gil from here)

P10) spot the bolt above the belay and climb to it from the right side.(or head right onto Astro Gil) Slab on up subtle features weaving your way past 7 bolts to a ledge. 120 feet 5.7

P11) 5th class up and left past a tree up easy slabs. 150 feet

A brief 3rd class exit on to the summit slabs

Climbs cracks and face on the west face, starting about 400' left of where the upper half of the Beckey route leaves the huge bush covered "main" ledge.

Original name was "Too Hip To Be".

I hope to add a topo or overlay photo from Ron Felton soon.

Hike up on the left (east) side of the ridge until it steepens slightly and climb a short exposed slab to an easier slab on the crest.  Then hike easily to the top.

18 pitches on the lower wall, plus 8 on the upper wall.

After 2 pitches on the right side of the pillar above the main ledge,

joins Time Warp (Beckey route) for last 6 pitches.

AAJ story:

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200220603/North-America-United-States-California-Sierra-Nevada-Tehipite-Dome-Wall-of-Ages

More from Dave Nettle on the Supertopo forum:

​

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/151883/More-about-Tehipite-Dome

​​​

Climbs 7 pitches below the main ledge, then traverses left and up 10 pitches above the main ledge.

See the Wall of Ages topo for the final 6 pitches.

AAJ story:

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196406800/Tehipite-Dome

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Tehipite Dome