This would be a classic if some moron hadn't chopped the bolts. The one time I climbed it, one bolt existed to the right of the crack; it's gone. People that pull this nonsense should be hung by their tongues over hot coals. Getting off the ground is a good boulder problem in itself. From there on it's grip city to the crack. The way it stands now, it's X. TR seems the reasonable way to climb it at this point.

Double Trouble

Lateralus

Right V Crack

Riff Raff Roof

Calcutta

Face to Face

Left Arete

Bombay

Left V Crack

Yogassitoit

Belay Girl

Mad Race

Fluff Boy

Pfundt's Folly

Step 'n Out

Near the left edge of the south face of Short Wall there is a thin system of crack and seam. Climb this, staying in the obvious line. The climb is reasonably mellow and protected for most of it's length.

This unusual route has the distinction of being the longest route (190') at the Short Wall, traversing the wall in it's entirety. Probably not the best climb for those crowded weekends but midweek should work.

Starting at the far left side of the wall, left of

Step 'n Out

, traverse right following an obvious horizontal break that ends at the far right side near

Donna T's Route

and finishes up that route.

A fun climb that is easier than appearances suggest with both good gear and varied climbing. Two stars out of five.

Perhaps the best line on the wall and one of the better cracks in the immediate area, the striking line of the

Right V Crack

is a must for crack climbing aficionados.

The climbing is fairly continuous and starts off with good finger locks and slippery feet down low, past an easier middle section to finish up an interesting lieback around a bulge higher. Originally rated 5.10a it appears that years of traffic have polished the start so much that it's gotten a bit harder. Three stars out of five.

When Dave Bengston and Mark Bowling soloed over 200 routes in a day at Josh they both soloed this climb by headlamp.

"That's going to leave a mark." The moves were fun, but one key jam was a little sharp. This was the one climb in J-tree (I did 92 routes on this past trip) that made me wish I'd taped up a little. My non-taping parnter and I had matching dents/scratches after the pitch.

Just left of the ever-popular pitches of Calcutta & Bombay there is a vertical crack going up 5 Meters to a roof, which you can jam and stem up and right to get through. Climb up and over this (crux, decent pro) and finish on easier rock to the top of the wall.

Were it not for the grit and sharpness of a few moves, I'd give it 2 stars. Honestly, this route would clean up with some traffic, but it doesn't get any.

This route is just right of "Bombay". While you're at it, climb both; it will be a good warm-up for the day. It's steep and strenuous--just like "Bombay". The crux, in my opinion, is 5.8/9. there are many nines in the park that are easier.

This climbs the thin face to the right of "Right V Crack", passing a horizontal, then following a thin seam to a ledge.

No waiting lines on this one!

This is blunt, rounded arete and flaring seam left of

Step 'n Out

at the far left end of Short Wall.  Scramble up the chimney to the arete and face above, squeezing the rounded arete and slopey seam as you go.  It's really gritty now, but would clean up to be a fun TR if it gets a little more traffic.  A worthwhile toprope if you have a line set up on "Step 'n Out".

Steep and strenuous. This route is located in the approximate center of the "Short Wall". The crux is awkward as apposed to "graceful". Make sure you have solid pro under it.

This is the left V Crack route. This starts as for Right V Crack, so look for the right-leaning blaze of chalk. This route leaves Right V just off the ground and goes vertically up a seam the left.   Very thin.

Thin face climbing up the smooth brown face that favors cooler weather for success.

The name is supposed to mean something like "to yoga sit/pose under the roof".

Located on the taller left side of the Short Wall about twenty feet right of an crack/break in the wall -

Mad Race

(5.4). Scramble onto a ledge at the base and set a belay.

The first bolt is up high, so get the tallest person in your party to clip it if you can. The moves come at you from the time you start to the very end and are thin, tenuous and somewhat improbable. Being tall and/or having a long reach is especially helpful on this route.

The rating may seem a bit of a sandbag for those climbers not familiar with this style of climbing, but what did you expect at Josh? Two stars out of five.

Unprotected, but easy, climbing leads up to the base of the crack proper which affords good jams and protection. The crux comes about two-thirds height, just past the point where Fluff Boy cuts off right, and involves negotiating a short offwidth section (face left). After the crux the angle kicks back and it's a breeze to the top.

A decent route for the beginner leader that features a somewhat involved downclimb - perfect training for the many complex descents found at Joshua Tree. One star out of five.

Climb up an easy crack system

Mad Race

(5.4) for about twenty feet and then cut right via a right-slanting flake system (pro to 3"). The rock is somewhat dubious so load up on gear, and then smear your way up past two bolts to the top (it's easier to cut left for a move or two and then back right above the last bolt).

Bolted anchor on top and easy downclimb via several options.

This climb is a testament not only to the powers of cleaning via traffic, as when this route was first done it was terribly grainy, but also to Todd's vision to see a fun route despite all of the chossy rock. One star out of five.

A bit left of the ever-popular pitches of Calcutta & Bombay there is a vertical crack going up 5 Meters to a roof, which is Riff Raff Roof. A few meters further left is a major left-facing dihedral system, part of the route Pfundt's Folly. As the bottom of this corner is poor, you can climb a crack system 3 meters left to a horizontal, go right on the horizontal, reaching the dihedral and heading up to the top of it to join Riff Raff Roof for a final romp to the top of the rock.

So-so climbing on so-so rock.

Description

Protection

Routes in Short Wall - Left Side