Start with 2 hard boulder problems back to back, ~V10 and ~V5, followed by 30 feet of solid 5.12 climbing. Let me know if you send it!

Open Project

Trashy Blonde

Bernie the Axe

The Salt and the Lime

Threedom Wheat

Zombie Jesus

Thor, Sam, and Aaron: Attorneys at Rock Law

Burros Wild

Goofy Foot

Overhang Crack

Hermano

d' Amber

Freeze Cat

Burnt Toast

Zigeunerweisen

Tequilla Redbull

Black Yak

Maple, Eh

Chill Session

Ol' Dairy Ale

Tre Anasazz

Pemba Sherpa

Scavezzo

La Suave Dura

Three Heavy

Saliente

Bad Phil

Trippel Barrel

Whiskey Fire

Skeleto

Walking On Wine

Black Copter

Pumplestiltskin

Campfired

Genizaro

Morada

B52 and a Ham Sammich

Blood, Sweat, & Cleavage

Don't Drink and Drill

CO Blunt Arete

Grammy Phil

Bob-B-Que

Climb the nice, gently overhanging, black streak on small pockets and small foo holdst. This route is hard from bolts 1 to 4, but it’s all there. The top half is easier, but you have to manage the pump.

This is the leftmost of three routes right in front of where most people park. Hike up slabs angling left-to-right to a ledge 25’ above the ground. Climb a slab to an obvious obtuse dihedral, which you can tackle two ways: stem and gaston to the left or layback and hug the arête to the right.

Start on the ledge 15' up, right next to

Bob-B-Que

. This is a slightly shorter, slightly easier version of

Bob-B-Que

. Like its neighbor, it requires confident footwork and trusting the high friction rock on small but good features.

Climb the left side of the gully following bolts, and then bust right on to bulgy, pocketed headwall. There are hidden pocket-jugs in the crack before you have to fully commit to the headwall, which has a fun crux move with some good exposure (but is well-protected).

This is the right of two routes on a half height pinnacle. It is pretty easy if you find the right pockets.

Climb just left of a couple vegetated cracks. Bolt 3 is the crux, made easier by using the cracks and stemming out right. After that, the angle kicks back to some nice, featured slab climbing with a nice bulge to pull to the top.

Use blocks to the left to reach the first clip (or climb straight up to it). You can hug the arete or stay left. Either way is about the same difficulty for bolts 1-3 and is the crux of the route. Above that, enjoy easier victory climbing.

Start in a small alcove, and climb the overhanging crack with a slab for your feet.

Start on the cool arete, then take the left-hand variation of bolts up the clean face. You can step left into the little pod for a rest. Pull over the bulge, and find the anchors at the back of the big ledge.

This climbs a sloping crack through the roof to a fun looking headwall. I am not sure of the grade.

Climb the smooth arete (the same start as

Goofy Foot

), then go right at the small roof (you may want to clip bolt #2 on

Goofy Foot

before clipping real #2 over roof and then back clean). This has great movement through the roof, then use the arete on the right, and finish on great pockets and edges.

This is the left of two close-together climbs that follow low-angle slabs to steep, huecoed headwalls. The pockets are mostly sidepulls and underclings, requiring some body position. The finish is hard to read.

From the deep gully on the left side of the wall, climb past a few bolts to an obvious crux bulge. It is hard to see where the good pockets are, but the crux is quite fun once you find them. Clip the chains just over the bulge.

Climb up the not-so-great slab, clip a bolt, then head into the awesomeness. If you follow the lieback crack, using face features when you want including some awesome "pocket edges", it's a great 11b route. Climb up to a no-hands rest, then finish on the short crack above to the anchors.

Or, don't use the lieback crack, and make it a 12a face climb, using the same bolts up into the no hands rest. Finish on the same upper crack.

Zigeunerweisen ascends a gently overhanging arete that looks pretty hard. This is a very aesthetic line.

Follow bolts up a thin seam using pockets and crimps. The crux at bolts 2-4 through a shallow corner is punchy but well-protected (beta alert ** there are a couple hidden holds around the left side of the bulge). Snag the jug, and enjoy victory 5.9 to the top.

Surmounting a tricky bulge gets you established onto delicate slab climbing above. This is surprisingly good, despite it being short.

Scramble up the boulder on the right side of the penis pillar. Use the short crack, then fire up awesome vertical climbing to an awesome overhanging finish.

Chill Session is the best warm-up here. Scamper onto a boulder, and clip bolts left of the crack. Stem on the pinnacle to the right of the crack, then follow a fun slab. Then climb a couple moves on a steeper headwall with good holds. You can make it 5.9 by not stemming. Either way, it's a great warm-up and a good lead for beginners.

This ascends an obvious buttress with big shiny anchors and red bolts. There are two starts: the left is hard, steep, and squeezed behind a bush; the right is slabby, easier, and passes one lone bolt.

Tre Anasazz is a good warm-up climbable from the back of your car. This is the righmost route on the half-height slab that leads up to the large ledge. Use the face and crack for fun movement. You can extend this into the next route,

Saliente

- use long slings and/or back cleaning a couple bolts to link into it to prevent heinous rope drag.

From the top of any of routes 20 - 26, scramble up onto the large sloping ledge to a belay anchor. Climb the dihedral to a roof. This has very fun movement, but watch for guano above the roof.

A hard boulder problem around V8 guards the middle of this route and is followed by sustained 5.12 to the top. Let me know if you send it!

Climb the right side of the lower slab, then fire up the right side of the impressive headwall on awesome pockets. This is pumpy and excellent!

This looks like a very hard route, probably 5.13. It goes up the left side of the penis pillar.

This is the left of two routes on a half height pinnacle. It is much harder than it looks – and has an exciting clip at bolt #2.

From the top of

Tre Anasazz

, scramble right to a chain anchor below the upper face, clipping and back cleaning a couple bolts. The first move is probably the crux, and the climbing is nice and technical.

Start below an overhang with obvious undercling holds (and an obviously hard boulder problem start). Stickclipping the 2nd bolt may be advised.

Two routes ascend this steep, slightly west-facing face above a ledge. This is the right route with bolts next to the arete. It shares its first 2 bolts with

Morada

and its anchor with

Ol’ Dairy Ale

. It is an awesome line, marred only by the temptation to cheat by pulling around the arete. Move out onto the face at bolt #6 for a beautiful 5.11 sequence on pockets.

Skeleto is the middle of three routes right in front of where most people park. This has the steepest, most continuous finish of these three routes. Go straight over bolts at the crux or pull right to larger holds.

Walking On Wine is a sustained and full value 12a. Clip the first bolt near the crack, and go left onto the face. Enjoy hard crimping and thin pocket pulling for 8 bolts, then climb the glorious roof move with one more bolt to pull to the top of the wall. This may be the longest route here.

Scramble up to sloping ramp, and stem across brush-filled gully to get onto this short but sweet slab climb.

Pumplestiltskin is the farthest left route on the crag. It is blocky and vertical. Start brushing up against a tree growing right against the crag.

Campfired may be the most visually impressive line on the crag. The first bolt is way above the ground – climb in from the right. There are two bolts at the lip for two variations: it is easier (12a) to climb straight over the first bolt on the lip; and it is harder (12b) to clip the second (higher) bolt and traverse right-to-left. Either way, you get a hard lip encounter to fantastic climbing above!

Genizaro is the rightmost of three routes right in front of where most people park. Climb up into a big scoop, clip the first bolt, fire up the face to a ledge, then go right up a short pillar to another ledge. Then pull a couple moves on the final fun headwall.

Two routes ascend this steep, slightly west-facing face above a ledge. This is the left route. It is smooth, steep, and pumpy!!! This is just out of view in the topo.

There are multiple ways to climb this offwidth, but squeezing yourself all the way in then birthing yourself out the top is the most fun and easiest to place those big cams. This may have been climbed before our ascent, but it did require some cleaning, so we're not sure.

This ascends a nice crack climb with good jams, stems, and pockets. It protects well and has a bolted anchor at the top.

Climb the vertical crack for about 30 feet placing gear. When the crack angles left, pull into the rest stance, then climb the bolted face directly above the crack. The holds can be hard to see, but they are good. The anchor is just over the lip below the big roof.

Climb a blunt arête just right of a right-facing dihedral (get it: Colorado “blunt”). The grade depends on how much you stem the left wall. Be a purist for maximum challenge and arête pleasure, which makes the grade around 11c. Or stem it all, and make it 10d. After cruxing at bolt #3, the top is a blast.

Start with a stout boulder problem to the second bolt (stickclipping the 2nd is highly recommended), then follow fun easy climbing above to the anchor below the large ledge. Watch for some loose rock on this one - it is still worth doing it.

Start up on a ledge 15' up. There are 2 close together, steep slab routes. This is the left one, and it has great pockets! It is a perfect sample of the techy climbing here. This route will train you how to use your feet at the Promised Land.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Wall