This route is essentially two boulder problems down low separated by a good rest (one powerful, one off-balance and technical).  After this, easier climbing on incut holds leads through a 20-25 foot runout onto a ledge, with a bolt high above it that will be very difficult for someone short to clip if the draw isn't already hung.  Take a deep breath and get through it- the climbing to the ledge and pulling onto it isn't hard and you can get several good, restful stances.  After you are standing on the ledge and make the hard clip, find your way through the confusing last few feet to clip the chains (which would also be hard to clip for anyone short).

Skidmark

Wavey Gravy

Change in Luck

Modern Times

New Wave Direct

Point Break

Holey Moley

Tsunami

The Lady Don't Mind

This route is basically a hard boulder problem (V3/4, IMO) up to a good hands free rest. After that a long, dynamic move puts you onto easier terrain. After the last bolt directly on Change in Luck, it's a long, traversing runout to join Skid Mark at the last bolt and then chains shortly thereafter. The climbing on this runout is very moderate. 

  Change in Luck currently shares anchors with Skid Mark, around 10 feet to the right and perhaps 25 feet above the last bolt directly on Change in Luck. A spicy runout--a fall near the top could have you swinging hard into the cliff in front of New Wave. 

  A fun climb worth getting on if you've already tagged some of the better lines on the wall.

 Note: the right side of the big hole that you rest in feels pretty rotten--use it gently. 

  Note: Stick-clipping the second bolt is not a bad idea; very difficult climbing to a difficult clipping position.

A super safe moderate well worth a visit from the moderate team.  You will need to be careful as you make your way to the start of the climb if others are at the New Wave Wall because the gully is pretty unstable.  You don't want to roll rocks down on them.  Starts up a left facing dihedral eventually moving right on to classic Windy Point face moves.  Turn a roof then work left to anchors.

Small edges to an easier traverse to the finish of New Wave.

Follows the crack but New Wave DIRECT breaks a bit right when the crack jogs left. 

  New Wave (original) used to follow the crack all the way to the ledge as a gear route with 2 or 3 pieces of fixed pro.  The awesomeness of the line was enhanced by the fact that it was the ONLY route on the wall at that time.

Point Break tackles the green lichen streak right of where Tsunami veers slightly left to the flake rest.  Unlike Tsunami there are few if any intermediate holds between quartz bands making for some big moves on your way to the anchors. 

  Guaranteed to be better than the old or new versions of the movie Point Break, this route should not be missed.

Holey Moley climbs through the obvious hole in the middle of the New Wave Wall and continues to the top of the formation.  This is probably the easiest route on the New Wave Wall although it is one of the best.  Climb small crimps to the hole.  The start might be more difficult for shorter climbers.  Climb past the hole on delicate moves past an optional tcu placement.  Once on the ledge, continue on 5.9 climbing to the chains. Gets morning shade.

One of the best sport climbs on one of the best cliffs on Mt. Lemmon.  Tsunami is the last route on the right side of the cliff before the arete.  Climb elegant moves to a good rest halfway up the route.  The crux involves cranking on small crimps.  Gets morning shade.

In case you forgot your rack was in your bag and you find yourself at New Wave Wall, this is a fun little bit of trad for you. It climbs the crack/seam to the right of Wavy Gravy before travesing left, joining up before the roof and sharing anchors. Thought provoking stems, mantles, and whatnot with good stances to place gear.  

  The crux for me was deciding when to traverse left: too early and it looks harder too late and you run out of good pro until the roof. I chose the latter straight up to the roof and enjoyed it. I then back cleaned the pro in the roof once I clipped the first bolt to avoid drag. You probably don't need to bother with that gear unless you have kids or traverse left earlier.

The New Wave Wall is one of the many high quality sport cliffs at Windy point.  It is different however in its consistently gently overhanging nature and an abundance of super high quality 5.12 climbs.  The wall faces northwest and always has shade in the mornings.  All older bolts and pins have been replaced with new bolts.  All the routes demand stamina and strong fingers.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in New Wave Wall