Starts on "Geriatric" and follows the weakest line right through "Annadonia" to "Looking For Lust." Surprisingly fun and long.

The Future

Year of the Ankle

Out Of Control

Rock-a-holics

Freebase

Too Low For Zero

Last Call for Alcohol

Looking for Lust

Stylin'

Quiet Desperation

Cookie Crumble

Vertical Willies

Micro Balls

Campinini

Cool for Cats

Dirty Corner

Rude Awakening

Geriatric Sex Maniacs from Mars

Annadonia

Cinq Jour D'Affille

Femme Fatale

Shower the People You Love with Bolts

A Salami for Your Boy in the Army

Cardiac Standstill

Danger High Boltage

This route is located in the corner about 20 feet to the left of Annadonia.  Crux is low-- at the bulge getting to the standing ledge.  From the ledge you can finish on 3 different routes.  This is the left most of these lines.  The corner you climb in for this route is pretty sandy up high, so it kind of sucks.  It would be great if there were less sand.   

RCM&W #70, p. 130

This route take a basically straight line.  Many of the holds are quite polished, but not as bad as some of the routes to its left.  The first bolt is about 15 feet up, if you are not solid on this grade, stick-clipping the first bolt is a good idea. 

 RCM&W #62, p.130.

THIS ROUTE HAS BEEN CHOPPED, thankfully.  I'll leave this for historical reasons. 

  In general, I would usually rather be climbing even the worst routes than not climbing at all.  ESP, however, is so bad that it is actually worse to be climbing it than to not be climbing at all.  I've been an obsessive, passionate climber for almost ten years, and when I got down from this route, I said aloud, "I don't know if I ever want to climb again."  It was bad enough that, for a moment, the entire lifestyle and activity felt like a mistake.  Luckily, I shook the sensation off, but the aftertaste remained.   Before I was assigned the route, I listed a few detractors below in the comments.  With sandy chossiness, ugly graffiti, dwarfish length, awkward moves, rusty bolts, dangerous anchors, awful position, and seepage, this route has it all.  Alternatively, you might consider the length to be a plus - at least it doesn't last all that long.  Woe be to Red Wing and Minnesota, that they harbor this route.

The route is the middle line from the start of Geriatrics, etc.  It's about 25 feet to the left of Annadonia.  I really liked this route.  It's much less sandy than Geriatrics.   

RCM&W #71, p. 130

Not for the faint at heart.  The crux is committing to start the route.  If you don't mind the runout 1st and 2nd bolts, this climb is FUN.  This route meanders left and right of the bolts.   

RCM&W #59, p. 126

Corner Crack between Cardiac Standstill and Rock-a-holics.  Leadable with gear or toprope using the anchors for Rock-a-holics.  Enjoy the variety of climbing techniques required to ascend this crack. 

RCM&W # 58, p. 126

Enjoy every bit of this route.  Start at a prominent right facing crack and work your way up this balancey route.  Stay left of the anchors and traverse right to finish. 

RCM&W # 61, p. 126

This climb is to the right of Rude Awakening, the area is between the Annadonia area and Perfect Crimb area.  If you end up looking for this climb, it's actually pretty decent, but would be better with more traffic to get the spiderwebs and grit out of the holds.  It climbs just right of a tree up a small crack/corner.  Some fun moves that unfortunately are over too quick.   

RCM&W # 79, p. 131

One of my favorites at Red Wing.  Its' the longest route on Barn Bluff.  Once you get past the first 20ft of lie back flake its smooth sailing on big jugs.

Stylin' shares the start with Out of Control and Geriatrics Maniacs from Mars. After climbing to the ledge past 4 bolts (shared between the three climbs) continue diagonally to the right, initially on delicate small crimps, finishing on overhanging jugs. Very nice and slightly exposed route. Less traveled option on crowded days.

Quiet Desperation climbs a faint arete located thirty feet to the right of Femme Fatale and twenty feet to the left of Stylin/Out of Control/Geriatric Sex Maniacs from Mars. 

  Quiet is, ahem, a desperate, little bugger. The route gets going on the first move, a big throw off a good right hand crimp and an ok left hang crimp/pinch to either a two-finger pocket or a crimp. This move is easier for tall folks. From the pocket, a tenuous move deposits the climber at a rest on a nice edge. Getting to the next rest, two huecos, requires lots of tension and precision. This is the physical crux of the route. After resting at the huecos, tricky moves lead to the last bolt, which is a little farther away than most would like. This is the redpoint/mental crux. From the last bolt, it's Red Wing sand jugs to the top. With desperate moves down though and some tenuous cruxing up high, crisp temps are extremely helpful for sending this rig.

This is a place holder entry in the interest of having a complete route list. If you have climbed this route and have details, please add them to the comments or email me and I will update the description and reassign the route to you. 

  Thanks. 

  -=glenn=- 

RCM&W # 65, p. 130

A toprope to the right of Cool for Cats. It's dirty and indistinct from the surrounding rock, but there are a couple of moves that are unique. Chert nodules stick out of the sandy rock for the crux, providing the only holds. If you have Cool for Cats set up, and you on-sight eleven, it could be a fun route to spend a few minutes on. Thanks to all the very smart people along the way that decided not to bolt it. 11a

Another one of my favorite routes at Red Wing.  Climb the dihedral and move to the left a bit following the bolts.  If you can not see the next bolt, do not despair it is hidden over a small overhang.  Not as polished as many of the routes in this area. 

 RCM&W, #63, p.130.

Campinini is just left of Geriatric Sex Maniacs from Mars and begins off of an obvious two foot tall boulder. The crux of this route is getting off the ground/boulder and past the second bolt where the difficulties ease until the final overhang. The start involves tip-toeing your left foot off of the boulder and bumping your right hand to a sloping dish while holding a crimp/undercling with the left. It looks possible, and very difficult, to begin climbing from the ground by using a very shallow left hand dish. There are a fun series of difficult moves through the second bolt where you reach bomber ledges and a good rest. The route then proceeds through the upper overhanging arete and finishes on anchors immediately to the right of the last bolt. 

  Due to a lack of traffic the top of this route is very loose and dirty. Get out of the way and expect a shower of rocks from the leader as they approach the top.  

RCM&W # 69, p. 130

Never even considered trying this route in the summer due to slimey lichen cover, which would undoubtedly make mosquitoes even less enjoyable. Climbed it first time on a cold mid-October day and found it actually quite fun. Start on a dark face with two bolts, go up the arete, and surmount a tricky overhang (crux). Quintessential Red Wing dirt climb: for those who want it fun, do it early spring or late fall, for those who want hardcore swamp-like experience plough yourself into it on a hot and humid day in August. 

RCM&W #76, p. 130

This is a place holder entry in the interest of having a complete route list. If you have climbed this route and have details, please add them to the comments or email me and I will update the description and reassign the route to you. 

  Thanks. 

  -=glenn=- 

RCM&W #75, p. 130

  Owl Closure Route, climbing closed from Feb thru June

I guess this route has cleaned up some since I was on it, in maybe 2004.  Folks are now actually enjoying it (see comments below).  There you have it, an updated description (2011).   

RCM&W # 78, p. 131

A tough start into some really good powerful climbing.  The final moves are pretty tough too.

A good beginner route or lead.  Basically just follow the line of bolts. Stay to the right of the bolts towards the small roof.  The crux is about half way up and can be avoided by traversing far to the right. 

 RCM&W #64, p.130.

Moist most of the time. Start off the ledge to the left climb to a very "hard to clip" bolt.  Fun climbing with powerful reaches and sharp crimpers/pockets. A surprising slab crux brings you to a "runout" for the bluff.  Aside from the general wetness it's a really fun route and should get more traffic.  Probably one of the better 12's at the bluff. Just left of "Quiet Desperation." 

'Same start as Stylin, left of Anadonia. Climb to first bolt of Sylin and head right. Gain shelf 20 feet above Anadonia start, can use Anadonia crack for feet to gain shelf. Traverse back left about 6 feet to small hueco at feet and go straight up, stay on face and do not climb back right to bigger pockets (would be 5.8 if go right). Use small pockets (should be a cool 'trigger' hold) to gain small shelf to final over hang. Use larger pockets to gain anchors. NOTE: The route continues high up another 20 feet, but VERY loose and dangerous, huge chunks have fallen in past. Not recommended if you like your belayer.

This route starts left of Rude Awakening in the crack left of its first bolt. Head up the crack and into the dihedral following the bolt line until it meets up with Rude Awakening. Use the final two bolts and chains of Rude Awakening. 

This is a place holder entry in the interest of having a complete route list. If you have climbed this route and have details, please add them to the comments or email me and I will update the description and reassign the route to you. 

  Thanks. 

  -=glenn=- 

RCM&W # 57, p. 126

Bring your mantling and edging skills to successfully lead this route. Veer right next to the 1st bolt and finish by heading left of the anchors.  The crux is between the 3rd and 4th bolts. 

RCM&W # 60, p. 126

The area right around the corner from the Sunburst Buttress is known as the the Annadonia Area.  The area contains the majority of the crags moderate routes and is often crowded.  The generic wall area is commonly reffered to as the warm up wall.  Annadonia area (the Generic Wall/East End area in particular) falls directly beneath the end of the hiker trail.  It's not uncommon for rocks to rain on climbers in this area from the hiker/tourists throwing rocks from atop barn bluff.  Wear your helmet.

Description

Protection

Routes in Annadonia Area