Scramble up to the ledge just below 'Sheila'. Use the belay bolt to protect the easy moves to the first bolt and deal with immediate arete cruxyness at the second bolt. Once you grab the jugs clip the third bolt and pull into the dihedral. Stem your way up the fun dihedral until it runs dry. When you get to the roof, pull around left and onto the face. Touch 'Sheila' for a brief moment and then head right. Climb forever on the amazing face using incredible little crimper jugs. After climbing 125ft. the holds vanish and your options become limited. Clip the last bolt and float through the heartbreaker of a finish. DON'T CHEAT THE ROUTE AND BAIL LEFT! Go straight up the blank looking face to the anchor. This climb is center stage and classic! I can't believe it wasn't climbed sooner.

Queen of the Heartbreaks

Sheila

Pratt's Crack

Ecstasy

Eclipsed

A must-do classic right around the corner from

Pratt's Crack

. Follows a huge, clean-cut dihedral starting from the top of a 4th class ramp.

An initial tricky finger crack on the right face leads to a long section of hand jams in the corner. A burly lieback up a brief overhanging offwidth leads to a final short chimney. Traverse right, passing the anchors for Queen of Heartbreaks to the anchors for Sheila (directly above the chimney).

Ridicu-classic and surprisingly secure.

A long and beautiful offwidth in a giant clean-cut dihedral.  This is one of the most obvious lines in the canyon.  If you're up for a good grovel then hop on.

During colder months, hit this early in the morning as it dips into the shade around noon, maybe earlier.  In fact you may not see it at all.  Tends to be a windy canyon.  Two 60 meter ropes to rappel.

Start up a seam just inside of the arete, on the clean face to climber's right of Pratt's Crack.  Then veer out to the arete and up.  P1 via 16 bolts ends at a rap anchor at about same height as that of Pratt's Crack to the left.  P2 veers left back onto the same face above for another 8 bolts to the upper anchor.

From the 2 bolt belay, traverse a thin face for 3 bolts - the traverse gets tougher as you go.  Then head up the nice clean arete.  Like the traverse, the arete gets progressively harder, with the crux coming on off-vertical thin moves near the top.

Feels rewarding.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Pratt's Crack / Dihedrals Area