Left of "Eso No Se Hace (It just isn't done)" This climb begins either as a semi difficult series of face moves traversing left or better yet as a bold, bouldery semi-unforgiving direct start layback to a thank god bolt. Either way it is 11- and the climb eases in difficulty from this point as you enter a killer 5.8ish hand crack finishing the last 40 feet to the top. This climb was ressurected from the forrest and fern gods this fall 2018. It likely hadn't seen ascents since the first gulf war. It has been rebolted and sports its own set of brand new SS ASCA donated anchors.

Great Escape

Infrared

That's What She Said

Free Range Chook

Ultraviolet

Keg Stand

Eso No Se Hace

Chronic Relief

Party Line

First Strike

Prism Roof

Start as for “Free Range Chook” and immediately hand over hand out right on a jug rail. (Cliff Hanger style) Place gear and make some exciting hero moves heading up the wall. Clip two bolts as you cruise through the worlds best granite incuts. A small cam or nut guards the chains. This one is fun.

Type 1 fun on the best granite in North America. Mount a small boulder step to a ledge “The Side Walk” then follow three bolts through rad exciting laybacking ending with a mantle. Jugs and stemming through a corner brings one to the anchors. Stand high or its a big reach.....

Currently the farthest right of the Shady Lane West climbs.  Clip bolts past incipient cracks up to a hand crack roof.  Easily climb the roof onto the Shady Lane West Sidewalks. More easy climbing past the Sidewalks to a corner/arete.  Place some gear then pull up on the arete.  Clip the bolt out on the face and continue up the slabs and crux placing more bomber gear until you reach the anchor.

I'd give this route 4 stars if were just a little longer.  This route starts out pulling a steep section on jugs.  Then the crack goes from hands to fingers, with a thin crux at the top.

We cleaned this route in January and it has held up well so far.  It dries fairly quickly after rain.

Scramble up to the Shady Lane West Sidewalk.  Move on good crimps to the bolt.  Make a powerful move with the bolt at your chest or back down and move slightly more easily in from the left.  Continue upward the now easier but still challenging climbing with really good pro and lots of great handholds.

This fine gem is a great chance to practice off width, finger jams and hand jams in 40 feet. Previously described as a moss filled chimney. It is amazing what time can hide. Too bad it isn't longer.

Power up on jugs to the first bolt.  A thin crimp and creative footwork will get you through the crux at the second bolt.  Above, enjoy the stellar finger crack.

Mantle onto the ledge at the end of the finger crack then join Chronic Relief, clipping the last 2 bolts of that route to the chains.

In his book Sky Valley Rock, Darryl Cramer writes "if closer to the road, this would be a very popular route".  This route is somewhat of an Index rarity in that it is a straightforward, well-protected 5.9 sport climb.  It also provides the 5.9 leader with the added bonus of being able to toprope the fun and more difficult Eso No Se Hace.

Start by getting yourself onto the ledge at the base of the route - pull on a root and claw at the dirt or traverse in on face holds.

From the starting ledge, climb up the fun and juggy flake system past several bolts.  The crux comes right at the end as the wall becomes steeper and involves fun side pulls and a mantle finish to the chains.

A relatively short but engaging rock climb using four bolts for protection. A nice warm up with jugs on very sound rock. Cramer gives this route a couple stars. It has been re-cleaned and retro bolted with its own SS anchor making it another great moderate addition to this fantastic lesser known UTW destination.  For the big guns, try, the short (perhaps contrived) variation heading right after the second bolt called "Barbecued Bobcats" 11b (Same FFA party)

Still closed. Crux face moves below the roof. Tricky feet.  Making the crux unlocks the obvious airy ride above.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Shady Lane West