This route is only for those seeking a meaningless death on a poorly bolted, crumb cake of a climb.  The first of the randomly placed bolts is 15 feet off the ground, above a ledge, and awkward.  20 more feet of climbing on eroding rock leads to the second bolt. 

  Note "Squeezing the Lemmon II" (2000, EFR) lists this climb as 5.10 with no safety caveats.  The above is merely my flamebait of an opinion.  I believe this route should be rebolted or removed.

Leaners Permit

Flat Top

Kennel Cough

Schroedinger's Cat

True Grit

Dogmatic

Puddin' Britches

Bierhenkels For Bazzi's

Drivers License

Parvo Loading

Green Card

Nickel Puppies

Two Old Dogs At The Hydrant

Hosed Mouse Driver

Cookie Duster Roy

Butchwax

Hot Dog

Hippo Space Invaders

Hippos Are Pottamus Too

Foreign Affair

Valdez is Coming

Screwed the Pooch

Lobo Direct

A fun route originally bolted by John Baker in 2011. The rock below the first bolt is a bit crumbly, but the rest of the route provides great movement on some interesting holds.

Start off up an easy slab and then crimp your way up a gently overhanging face. A fun route that boils down to two one-move boulder problems in the V5-7 range: both involve long moves off of small holds. You do 12a/b climbing up to the first crux, get an excellent rest, fire the second crux, and then cruise to the top. 

  If I recall correctly, the whole thing is less than 20 moves, but it's action-packed. 

  Nothing to write home about, but if you've got strong fingers and weak endurance, it's probably worth your attention. Climbs much better than it looks.

Start is slabby going into a wide crack. Getting around the wide crack is a bit awkward, but there are jugs.

A mellow face with no certain crux. Mostly solid rock and good holds define the route, which is the easiest route of any quality on the wall.

Face climb, pretty thin most of the way up.  Crux is near the middle.  This climb lives up to its name: there is lots of loose grit to kick off, even 17 years after the FA.  Shares anchors with Bierhenkels For Bazzi's.

One of the better lines on the lower (S/SE) side of Lobo Wall. Climb a slightly difficult face with side-pulls or jams to a 3 foot roof with jugs, then saunter on up to the top.

A fairly mellow climb with the crux on the lower portion in thinner holds and small friction for feet. Worth doing, but not great.

Only 30 feet tall, but there's no waiting for the full-value 5.10.  Thin start up to pretty high first bolt, goes right of bulge, then slightly steep moves on positive holds to top.  Pretty much starts in the tree.  Avoiding a branch in your butt is the key to the start.  Shares anchors with True Grit.  Fun climbing, would probably get another star if only it were taller.  Call it a star and a half.

A slightly harder and less secure route for the wall, but still worth doing. The crux comes low as you split right from "Schroedinger's Cat" on crimps and slopers to escape to a different path. staying left and crossing higher might be slightly easier.

Thin start leads to easier climbing above

This is a pretty fun 5.9 route that protects well.  There is a nice hand crack in the middle and a tricky bulge near the top.  It is pretty sustained at the grade.

This climb is fairly sustained at the grade and has great air as it climbs the arete.  A little odd at the bottom as you need to climb around to the right of a big block around the third bolt to get on top of it.

Walk out on a small ledge past Valdez is Coming to a bolt that should be within arms reach. Continue up the thin face. Difficult side pulls, gastons and crimps.

Fun route on the right side of the arete, around the corner from Puddin' Britches.

Delicately climb a less-than-vertical face using small edges and nubs past two bolts.  When the angle steepens pull through a short powerful crux on pockets and edges to obtain a rest at a platform.  Two short sections of face and a second platform lead to the chains. 

Butchwax is a pleasant enough romp on interesting features but ultimately too short and inconsistent to leave a lasting impression.  Depending on your body type and climbing strengths the route may feel a bit soft for the established grade.

Steep face climbing past a series of dikes.  Finish guarded by a tricky bulge.

After a tricky start moving to and past the first bolt, climb the arete.  It is a short climb and the formation resembles a tooth.

A strenuous boulder problem down low leads to a brief undercling traverse and a large breadloaf lieback to the chains.

Crank up a hollow but solid flake on the arete before making some cruxy edging and palming up the rest of the arete. Well protected, a bit thoughtful, and fun!This was first done as a mixed bolt and gear line, with the lower flake taking the gear. In 2018 it was fully retro-bolted by Rhicard (FA party). 

Decent climbing on smaller stuff to start, thin in the middle, bigger holds up higher.  Goes over bulge near top.

Start in the main crack until you can follow a thin crack to the hueco (cool rest if you can find it) and then up discontinuous thin cracks. Try not to go too far right. The crack will fizzle out where a couple of face moves will get you to an unseen bolt just below the final bulge. Pull this to the chains.

Four little pinnacles and a wall with 30 routes from 5.5 to 5.13.  Many of the climbs are in the 5.10 range.  Most lines are bolted, but there are gear routes as well.  Pretty easy to follow the sun or shade depending on the season.  The walls face SE or NW.  Lots of large rocks and trees for belay seats, shade, etc.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Canines & Lobo Wall