Start about five feet left of the arete on the far end right hand end of Left Hand Wall. Move right to the arete proper, about 8 feet off the deck, then variously follow discontinuous crack system and the arete, following the path of least resistance and the gear placements. Should be fairly obvious. Traverse rightward to descend from the anchors on Susey's Groovy. It's easy to miss them and climb above them, (easy downclimbing, if you do). Pay attention and start looking for the traverse 10 or 20 feet prior to reaching the top of the line.

Tap, Tap, Can't Take Back

Freelance Tramps (Variation)

The Party's Over

Six Bats And A Ringtail Cat

Feels Like Someone Else

Unemployment Line

Susey's Groovy

Limbomaniac

Resume Builder

Pindering to the Masses

Guanica

This route starts at the far right of the left hand wall.  The beginning looks deceptively good as far as pro and fun climbing goes, but as one goes higher the rock turns very bad.  I sent multiple football and bigger sized rocks off the wall.  The gear is RUN OUT and tends to be on blocks.  If you fall (or more likely your footholds fall of the cliff)  I seriously doubt the gear, with the exception of the first one or two pieces, will hold you.  Stick to the slightly less chossy sport routes the the left of this crack system.

Climbs intermittent crack up blocky vertical face. Starts with some jamming, to slightly overhanging sidepull moves, to thin fingers lieback crack, to face move, to more crack, to reachy jug haul finish. Though vertical the blocky/bulgy nature makes it pumpy. 

  Climb finger/hand/fist crack to ledge at 12. Clip 1st bolt and make crux sidepull move to gain finger crack. Climb finger crack to top of pillar. Clip 2ed bolt, reach left to a sidepull then up to where crack continues. Top crack out and climb through reachy section on perfect jugs to chains. 

I found this climb to be easier than the 5.8s to the right (especially Unemployment Line, which has a hard start).  Like the climbs to its right, this one gets easier the higher you go.  One of the more clever route names on the mountain.

This is the second bolt line from the right on the east-facing (first) section of the Left Hand Wall.  The climb has a thin start past three bolts on a relatively slick face.  Things get easier higher up.   Overall, this is a fun and straightforward face climb.

well, the book says near this area is the route called "the party's over."  i don't want to mix up this route with that one, but with the books' vague description i can guess this is an unnamed route.  the route is in an obvious corner of lefthand wall west of "unemployment line" and features an open book stemming fest up top.  start with 30 feet of 5.6 where gear can be placed (careful of loose rock).  then the fun begins.  enjoy some solid stemming through five bolts and end at chains.

Climb left of crack then follow bolts up to the chains. Fun climb.

This is the right-most bolt line on the east facing portion of the Left Hand Wall (the first main crag on the left as you head up the creek).    This is a somewhat thin and polished face climb that gets easier the higher you go.

Well protected sustained climbing at the grade. Fun for the masses.

 Variation:  Use the crack 3' left of the bolt line for the lower half of the route.  Protects very well, takes 0.5" to 4".  Easier than the bolted start.

Pitch 1: Stem up chimney through a constriction, then the chimney re-widens and then constricts again before a final 20' of water polished slab. 

  Pitch 2: Continue up 2 tiers of polished slab to ledges then up another chimney section to roof crux, then final 10' of slab to P2 anchors. 

  Pitch 3: Unprotected (except for the anchors) 20' 4th class up and right on easy but polished slabs to 2 bolt anchors on the the top of the cliff, and walk off to the left. You can also rap in from the top via these anchors. 

  You can also link  the whole thing in 1 long pitch but I don't know if you would be able lower to the anchors atop pitch 1. Best to belay from the top. Both belays are comfortable.  

  It can also probably be climbed using only the slightly overhanging right wall at around 5.10/11??? and was bolted in such a way as to allow this. 2ed pitch was also bolted so as to allow climbing it without stemming.  

  Bats can/will fly out of 3 different areas of the route if disturbed which can be quite surprising, but they are harmless and cute!

The Left Hand Wall features a variety of moderate sport, mixed, and trad lines.  Since the style of these routes varies, parties should be cognizant of when gear is required. 

  The rock tends to be less-than-vertical with horizontal banding.  Similar to the rest of the Hairpin Turn Area the rock is a bit chossy.  As such the climber should move with awareness and helmets are recommended for belayers.  One should also be on the lookout for bee activity.  There is a known hive nearby and there has been a serious attack.  

  This wall is sunny until mid-afternoon.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Left Hand Wall