Burn Gage

First Blood Part II (Shoshin)

First Blood

twinkle toes

Lumberjack Crack

Death's Door

Start on a corner and climb straight up under the large block at the top following an intermittent crack as you go. Make use of the tricky holds in the shallow dihedral (crux) and if you're still hanging on after that grab the buckets under the roof (these holds are detached). Finish left and up.

Begin by pulling yourself on top of the boulder ten feet off the ground.  Continue climbing higher and eventually crank on a matchable jug that is actually a rock wedged in the chimney, hoping it doesn't move...

starts left of lumberjack crack about 8 feet twinkle toes is a thin face climb that snakes left then right slightly as you go up the crux is the thin top

The Lumberjack Crack follows the diagonal crack up the Outdoor Recreation Comity wall.  Nice easy lead or top rope for a beginner.

Climb up a short crack/chimney in a dihedral under a roof (the eponymous "door", which actually seems pretty stable though it is detached and the connection point is rather small), then traverse left along the crack and get burly to pull up onto the arete. Follow that to the top. Unfortunately there are no protection points on the upper arete so we did it only as a top-rope.

Old Rock Climbers (ORC) wall is a secluded wall back in the trees. Setup for the entire wall is easy if you have long slings. Lots of chances for new routes available here, with some good 5.8 - 5.10+ climbing on the face between the chimney on the south side and Lumberjack Crack on the north side. Beware of bugs during summer in the forest.

Setting Up There are two scrambles that will bring you to the top if you do not feel like leading Lumberjack Crack.South scramble: Bushwhack your way south towards the quarry. Before exiting the tree line and entering the quarry, an easy scramble takes you to the top of the rock. Pick a safe path north through some prairie / cliff tops to get back to the setup.North scramble: The quicker of the two if you don't mind a bit more climbing. Head a little north of Orc wall and keep your eye left. About 100 feet from Orc wall is a simple class 4 / 5.1-ish climb that will take you 20 feet to the top of the cliff. Pick a quick path south back to the top of Orc.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Orc Wall