WARNING!!! DUE TO SUSPECT ROCK THE GENERAL CONSENSUS FOR THIS ROUTE IS R/X. 

  Climb over a series of  mounds to a scary looking block. Carefully pull over this block staying slightly left of the bolts to the top. This block is large and looks like it could come off so be very careful. The roof above wants to push you off. Step right and pull over the roof (crux). Now climb the series of overhanging mounds above to the anchors.

Mounds

Sun Drop

Whatchamacallit

Now and Later

Atomic FireBall

Zagnut

Good and Plenty

Everlasting Gobstopper

Rick Krispie Treat

Lemonhead

Jaw Breaker

Kit Kat

Taste the Rainbow

Hot Tamale

Pop Rocks

Thingamajig

Pay Day

Butterfinger

Peanut Brittle

Cracker Jack

First route right of Cracker Jack (mixed crack).  Route opens with challenging 10b/c moves, then jug haul section to half way point up to a roomy ledge.  From the ledge, face climbing brings you to the very fun finishing roof move.  Not the most sustained route on the wall but very fun and well-protected.

It's like a pipeline of refreshment channeled directly to you, for the sole purpose of quenching your thirst.  Sun Drop climbs through low angle face down low, and to more vertical face up top.   

  SunDrop is the first route in the shade in the afternoon.

straightforward climb up through the v slot. Crux would be the small roof half way up and a couple tricky moves climbing to the second and third bolts on the second pitch

Climb past bolts and grungy face to roof. Pull roof on small crimps (crux) and continue up past bolts to chain anchors. This route is just under 100 feet.

A great sport route.  The crux is the roof after the second bolt.  After pulling the roof, there are good handles for your right hand (look for them they are great).  The climb eases up after the crux.  There is a Run up between the 4th and 5th bolt, but is easy climbing.  Enjoy! Just Have Fun!

Pull over a small overhang down low, up to another 7 foot or so ceiling half way up then up a short, right-leaning dihedral to a few more face climbs to finish it off.  Runner the draw in the corner under the big roof or even pull it after clipping the next ceiling edge bolt to reduce rope drag up top.  Also, consider runnering the draw just above the big roof.

Starts up ramp/slot on left then follows the face past bolts to chains. Good moderate climbing with a small headwall at top. Great first lead.

The slightly overhanging scoop just right of Peanut Brittle. 

  4 bolts lead up a rather blank face on crimps and crystals. Finish on Peanut Brittle. 

  This route has great movement and solid rock. Unfortunately, it seems rather contrived -- at the crux, the holds on the left side keep tempting you to move left and onto Peanut Brittle (5.9).

First line right of Zagnut.  Route starts up an easy scramble past one bolt up to a ledge.  Clip up from there and pull over the overhung lemony goodness to a well-earned, one hand rest.  Either go the more direct left way up [left] from there or smear up the slab out to the right, through a small dihedral [crux] and arrive at the anchor.

Challenging vertical line that goes up between Hot Tamale and Pop Rocks almost sharing holds with Pop Rocks at one point.  Half way up is a fun and well - protected crux, after which, the climb eases up eventually ending at a roomy ledge with chain anchors.  Continuing up to the summit is another 40 feet or so that starts up a dihedral with 9+ moves easing up immediately after pulling onto the ledge.  Another two bolt chain anchor will let you bring up your second safely.  A 70m rope will get you down from the top anchor but don't expect to TR the entire route from there.  Pulling your rappel line from the top anchors is best done from on top the boulder 30 feet back from the wall.  Walk off to the north or double rap if using a 60m.

Fun climbing up the face of the detached block right of Whatchamacallit. Follows bolts up the crux face to where the rock pinches off. Pull roof and continue up bolts. Make very exposed step over next roof then cruise easy face to anchors. Be sure to stay out of the grungy rock around the left corner. 

  This is a very fun and exposed climb but really watch yourself between the second and third bolt. And make sure you belayer is paying attention. If you blow the third clip and your belayer is asleep there is a potential to deck.

Thought-provoking moves on the slightly overhanging second half.  Those patient enough to tolerate some brittle rock at the start are in for a treat on the gymnastic upper half. 

  Step into the bottom of an obvious impression, clip up, then move out right to a ledge.  From top of ledge, move back left onto the route and up.  From here on up, to keep the route at the grade, the route is intended to follow line to the left and over bolts; not up the crack on the right. 

  Pulling the route direct at the bottom and/or to the right of the bolt line pushes the grade up quite a bit.

Steep sustained and pumpy climbing up overhanging rock with minimal rests. After 70 feet take rest before pulling last 20 foot section to anchors. From anchors step left on very thin face past a couple more bolts. Cruise last section on easier ground to top. A 70 meter rope will get you to the ground from the top. Otherwise make 2 60 meter rappels back down. Could scramble to the top and walk off to the North.

Climb straight up water stain/groove right of Jawbreaker. Stem past crux about half way up. Continue over roof and watch for the anchors on the face right of the groove. Kind of hard to see.

Climb ramp right of Pop Rocks to ledge under a dihedral. Balance up into dihedral (crux) then step left and up to corner of block. Follow bolts over steep rock to anchors. Can continue past the anchors on easy ground protected by gear. There is a bolt on top to bring a second up but if you do go to the top you will have to walk off.

Super fun over bolted climbing (must have been pay day when I bought the bolts) past 3 roofs. Delicately climb grungy corner then step onto right face. Work up past bolts to the obvious crack in the roof. Pull over roof at crack then climb up corner to another roof. Climb over right side of roof and on up corner. Where right face goes blank step onto left face and clip bolt. Use a long sling to minimize rope drag. Climb left face to top of bulge then pull final roof (crux) and climb thin steep face to anchors. Strenuous climbing at grade. The bottom of this route is still being cleaned. Stay off the left side of the bottom corner.

Straight up the black water stain on the right end of the wall.  Pull a mind blowing undercling with no feet to a long reach over the small roof to a crimper then up milder ground to a fun mid 10ish move in the middle then another just below chain anchors.

Thought-provoking and sustained 5.9+ that earns its plus rating around two thirds of the way up at a balance/slab crux.  Avoid the urge to veer towards the easier chossy left side around the third bolt.  Very well bolted with chain anchors.

Obvious crack with 2 bolts. Where crack veers left go straight up face on plates.

Mostly Sport climbing just before Isle of You Wall. This area is being developed by Mike and Amy Diesen, Daryl Allen and Angel Mangual-Guadalupe. Great routes and well bolted. A 60 meter rope is required for most routes. 

  Here is a list of the routes so far from left to right:   Good and Plenty 5.7   Peanut Brittle 5.9+   Rick Krispie Treat 5.12   Cracker Jack 5.10c/d   Everlasting Gobstopper 5.10c/d   Mounds 5.10-   Hot Tamale 5.10b/c   Jawbreaker 5.10a/b   Pop Rocks 5.10a   Thingamajig 5.9+   Watchamacallit 5.8   Kit Kat 5.8   Atomic Fireball 5.10c/d   Now and Later 5.10b   Pay Day 5.9+   Unknown Left of Zagnut 5.11+ R   Zagnut 5.11b   Butterfinger 5.11c   Lemmonhead 5.11a   Taste the Rainbow 5.8 (around back side) 

  The rock quality is pretty good and the loose stuff is getting cleaned up but this is a new area and there is still some loose stuff. MAKE SURE YOUR BELAYER WEARS A HELMET.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sweet Rock