Fun face and crack climbing on a route that is actually a variation to the start of either Schist Happens or Schist For Brains.  Climb and protect the thin crack (just right of the Schist for Brains flake) to the obvious bulge.  Clip the bolt and power through to a second bolt and a good stance.  Now face climb to the top of the obvious crack, protecting it as you go.  At the top of the crack, move left to finish on Schist For Brains, or to the right to finish on Schist Happens.

Schister

Schist Happens

Schist for Brains

After cracking the opening moves up the right side of the shallow dihedral, work up to and through the schist to the crystaline face above.   Work up to the flake, and then the steep face (crux) above.  Easy climbing leads to an interesting schist spike, and then flakes to the top.  Note:  Although the block perched to the left of the spike is quite stable, avoid using it.  You can easily avoid it.

Climb the big flake up to and through the schist (the intent of the route is to not stem to the left).  Work right onto the nose of the ridge, then follow the bolts to the top.  After the 9th bolt, you will come to a block perched on the top of the ridge.  It is quite stable but avoid using it.  You can easily get by it without using it.  Climb up to the left, and over the notch to the anchors.

This spire faces SW, so it gets sun most of the day.  There is a schist band running horizontally about 20 feet up, as well as a schist cap on top.  Rock quality is good, with a variety of climbing on schist, quartz knobs and crystals, and granite flakes.

Description

Protection

Routes in Schist Head