We split this into two pitches due to some loose rock reaching the low first ledge. This could easily be combined into one pitch.

Begin up a chossy section to a large ledge (our first pitch, 5.7) which is at the base of the obvious crack up the northwest face . From the ledge, climb through a wide roof (crux). Once through the roof, an enjoyable hand crack (one fixed Pika Toucan) leads to the top.

A single 60M rope rappel will get you to the ground.

Mother Tower – Northwest Face

Middle Tower – Daughter

Fifth Tower from the South (Second from the North)

Fourth Tower from the South (Third from the North)

Rising Sons

Middle Tower – Northwest Face

South Tower – North Face

From the saddle of Mother Tower and South Tower, scramble up to the base of South Tower's north face. Face climb past 2 bolts and make a mantle to the left. A thin finger crack leads to another small ledge. Follow the obvious hand crack to another bolt above where the crack ends. I think the actual route goes up and left up a blank wall to a sort-of-sketch fixed pin. I couldn't figure out the feet to get to the pin. Instead, I hand traversed right to the western arete. Poor protection and loose rock lead to the top from the western arete.

Maybe figure out what I couldn't on the more direct left line. If you do choose to go right, extend your runners or the rope drag will be hellacious.

A single 60M rope rappel will get you to the ground.

The third pitch on this route is not to be missed! This route begins between Mother Tower and Middle Tower (3rd tower from the south).

Pitch 1: 5.9, ~80 feet.

From the tall southeast side of the tower, begin up a hand crack left of the wide first pitch of Rising Sons. Climb the crack for 50 feet and traverse right (1 bolt) back to the wide crack. Two more bolts lead to a belay.

Pitch 2: 5.10, ~80 feet.

Traverse up and right to a dihedral that has a crack between the towers. Once near the top of a pillar, traverse right to the base of the obvious splitter on Middle Tower.

Pitch 3: 5.11, ~100 feet

. The money pitch. Thin, tricky moves lead to a tight hands splitter which is a little tough due to a waxy veneer. An exposed roof leads to easier crack climbing but with a little softer rock. Finish with some technical face climbing protected by ~7 bolts (might be more?). I had to pull through a short section of bolts at a blank section which felt hard for 5.11. One final sandy mantle leads to the summit.

Rappel down the northwest face with a single 60M rope.

Start between the fourth and fifth towers. Easy scrambling leads to a fat bolt at the base of the fifth tower. Clip the bolt and make a one move wonder to the top.

A single 60M rope reaches the ground

Begin between Middle Tower and this unknown fourth tower. Climb up a somewhat thin crack to the notch between the towers.

From the notch, stem up and make a mantle to a large ledge at the final headwall of the tower. Continue up to a fixed pin with one final techy move leading to the airy summit.

A single 60M rope reaches the ground.

Rising Son takes a direct line up the SW face of the tallest of tower of the Family Butte known as Mother Tower. Overall the white wingate rock is excellent.

P1) The climb goes up an offwidth that starts up an awkward overhung V groove. Struggle up the crack (two #6 two #5 one #4 friends useful) that crosses the climb that goes up the Daughter Tower to the right past two bolts on this climb to double anchors on the sloping ledge. 80' 5.9 C1

P2) Move into the fine right facing corner which is climbed mainly on cams plus 5 bolts to a small ledge and double anchors. A nice pitch. 140' C2

P3) From the belay, move right and follow eight bolts up the headwall to a mantle then finish up easy climbing to the summit. There is a three bolt anchor in place from the route on the NW side of the tower. 80' 5.6 C1

Descent. Rap from the anchors 100' to ledges on the NW side of the tower. Scramble down trending right to around the north end of the towers.

The climb might go free but it will be no cake walk.

Summit register in cairn. Placed in 2002 by Layne Potter. Several entries from north face route.

Middle Tower is the third spire from the south. From the base of the northwest face, climb up a wide angling (R to L) flake/crack to a small ledge. A crux move off the small ledge (thin fingers) widens as you climb higher. A very enjoyable route.

A single 60M rope reaches the ground.

Description

Protection

Routes in Family Butte