The obvious hands to fist crack.  May only be 5.6 now that it has been thoroughly cleaned on rappel; the climb would get two stars if it were longer.

Dusk

Mud Slide Crack

Rear End Blues Crack

Jason's Little Bumpy Thing

The Procrastinator

Adanedi

The Real McCoy

Max's Tight Crack

Sorry Rob Two Fingers

Smear Factor

Little Wing

Spongeworthy

12 Weeks

The climb is on a brown slab tucked up in the gully to the left of the Indian Creek Wall. Climb the slab past 4 bolts to a tree anchor.

Climb the left side of the obvious arete past 2 bolts.  Step left after the second bolt to a finger crack.  Shares a 2-bolt anchor with Sorry Rob Two Fingers. 

  Named for Troy Barnes, who violently slid through the woods while helping establish the route.

An excellent, short hand crack.  This route is a great beginner lead.  There's a 2-bolt rap station above the crack.  Lower here or continue up the second half of 12 Weeks (5.8+). 

  12 Weeks and Rear End Blues would be extremely popular if in a different location.

Just left of Max's Tight Crack.  Follow a slight bulgy prow past 4 bolts to a shared 2 bolt anchor.  Crux is climbing past the first 2 bolts.  Harder than it looks.

Deceptive.  Make a challenging move off of a small boulder and climb up to a rest on a block.  Clip the third bolt and make frictiony face moves up to the anchor.  Cruxes at first and third bolt.

Climb the intermittent crack with good protection to the double bolt anchors. 

  Pronounced "ah dah nay dey," the route name is the Cherokee word for "gift," or "to give".  Jim Dickson found and scrubbed the line via rappel, then insisted that Loran Smith take the FA lead when he bumbled up to the cliff after the work was done.

An incipient crack with perfectly spaced natural protection opportunities.  The crux is the first few moves.

Climb the right side of the obvious arete to a 2 bolt anchor.

Harder than it looks!  Technical and frictiony climbing.  Place optional (and questionable) finger sized gear off the ground and climb to the first bolt (5.8, a little spicey) or stick clip.  Optional .5 below the overlap.  Crux at overlap using an upside down hold, sustained climbing/crimping to top.  2 bolt rap station after mantle. 

The climb is located to the right of Black Pudding Gully. Climb a short slab to a ledge. Follow a great sustained steep slab past four bolts and a mild runout to a two bolt anchor shared with Adanedi to the left.

If anyone has seen Seinfeld  you will understand the meaning behind the name. The second meaning is the fact that it took me four ttys over three weeks to get on this thing. Well on the forth try it was still wet and I looked at Loran and said F it Im going for it. Climb up the low angle slab past a bolt to an overlap. Place gear at the overlap (small stuff). Follow the overlap up and right past another bolt. Then step left pas the last bolt to a bulge get up on top of the bulge buy using a one finger pocket high up(crux) then clip the anchors.

Climb a right slanting finger crack past a fixed wire to a tree ledge (9+).  Belay at a tree or step left and climb the face above past horizontals (5.8+).    

  There is a 2 bolt rap station at the tree ledge and a rap station above the 5.8 face. 

  Jen was 12 weeks pregnant at the time.

The best way to describe this section is a bunch of small crags spread out on the very right side of Humphreys. Fun moderate single pitch climbing, very close to North Conway.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 5. Humphrey's Hollow