A rare and exceptional line on perfect stone.  Despite its short height, this is an absolute king line.  Follow a series of core-intensive gastons and sidepulls through three bolts of shallow vertical seams, and get a much needed shake on a jug below a roof.  Its about 12a to this point.  From the jug, pull an incredibly difficult crux through the roof. This crux has been done two ways: Shorter folks will have to utilize an imaginary undercling, and do a full-span move to a miserable finger lock culminating in a cross into a perfect mono pocket.  Taller people can dyno through this move, but will have to re-adjust afterward, as it sets your hands up backwards.  Finish it up with a couple tenuous moves to jugs.  This line has yet to see a repeat, so the grade is unconfirmed, but it will feel somewhere between 5.13b and 5.14a depending on your height and reach.

Dirty Rags

Learning to Swim

Cornerstone

Death by Moo

Volume Project

A short but wild route that climbs the blunt arête on the left side of the crag.  This is basically a highball V13 with a rope.  Climb through three bolts of 5.12a through a wild geometric feature that looks like a gym volume, and arrive at a jug.  From the jug, its about V12 to the top.  Make a huge right hand move to a miserable two finger pocket, and matching monos.  Move left to terrible fingerlocks, and finish up on bad crimps.  This rig is ridiculous, and is estimated to be about 5.14c.

Stick clip the high first bolt, and begin climbing up the finger crack on the climber’s right side of the wall.  Traverse onto the face on bucket pockets, and pull through a super awkward layback through a series of cracks and seams.  Pull onto the ledge, and finish it up on easier terrain.  In the middle of summer, while making an attempt at the first ascent, a climber beach-whaled onto the ledge, kicking his legs in desperation, while wearing flowery swim trunks.  And from this, a classic was born.

To the right of the main wall, there is a gorgeous pocketed arête.  Climb through a hard start on pockets and pinches, avoiding the crack that wants to sucker you out left (its harder to start left).  The climbing eases up before throwing another crux into the mix on perfect pockets leading to the anchors.  Be sure to remain on the left face after the final crux.  It's easy to get suckered off route to the right.

After a local’s harrowing story of narrowly escaping the jaws of an angry cow, it was decided a route needed to be named in its honor.  Climb to the roof of Dirty Rags, and clip a bolt to the right.  Make a rightward traverse through a rose move to a jug.  Don’t resist the urge to get in the classic one arm hanging chalk up.  Pull a final crux getting established into the finger crack above.  Don’t be ashamed of clipping the anchors from the Rhodo-jug at the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Castle Rock