Nice face climb that sees early morning sun.  The business is between the 1st and 3rd bolts, but a few moves up high to keep you awake.  Be careful of the friable rock at the ledge just below the 3rd bolt - a fall here would be pretty unpleasant.

Wall Drug

Two Bag Face

Mr. Workman's Crack

Preservation of Wildlife

Bosnian Vacation

Toss that Beat in the Garbage Can

Hole in the Wall

Mrs. Workman’s Corner

Workman's Comp

Bosnian Vacation is a smorgasbord of NRG features and styles, cramming just about every New River trope into a seemingly compact 90'.  A V4 power problem right off the deck?  Check.  An immediate transition to a laughably thin technical crux on the tiniest of crimps? Check.  A huge horizontal where you can get it all back?  A requisite section of choss? Reachy 5.11 jug hauling? Crazy, exposed dihedral moves? A looong easy romp to the chains that protects well with anything from a blue to orange TCU?  Multiple checks.  Not a classic, but undeniably fun, you should get on it if you're in the area.  The bit of gear up top is super-casual to place.  It's also one of the easier 12d's in the gorge... provided you don't fall off!

Climb up the chimney formed by a detached block. Step left off the top of the block onto the face, clip a glue-in bolt, and then head into a small crack, finding gear as you go. From the seam, pull up onto a sizeable ledge. Follow smallish holds up to large horizontals trending left, toward the arête. Move across the arête to the left side, take in the view and exposure and follow generous but spaced horizontals to bolted anchors at the top.

The direct start to this route is R rated unless you have some very large gear (Big Bro) to plug in the ~20' detached block to start. This R start can be circumvented by walking uphill to climber's right ten feet, climbing the short dihedral to the top of the block, then traversing left. There is no gear, so technically it's still PG13, but much easier climbing than the direct start.

Start in a hand crack and climb up into a wide pod. Exit the pod following great finger locks and jams to reach a stance below a small overhang. Traverse left about 6 feet to join a thin crack. Climb the thin crack(crux). Be careful not to steal a key hold with gear. Once you've reached the bomber finger lock, continue up and right to reach the anchors. This route has a great variety of climbing from hand jams to thin face moves.

This rounded arete is "a bit of a sandbag" according to Mike Williams. I might have to agree. Interesting climbing that will make you thank god every time you get to a stance, and then you'll curse when you have to pull off the ledge with protection that you might not be so psyched on. Stick clip the first bolt and make sure your belayer is paying attention if this is anywhere near your onsite level. Have fun getting off the ground.

Pull up into the left-facing, arching crack until it shrinks down. Figure your gear, feet and hands.  Then good holds and gear appear when you need them up into “the hole” .

Crawl into the hueco, figure out your protection, and then make moves to the anchor.

(Crack can be seeping even in dry spells)

Nestled in the corner of the Workman's area. Head up the corner but then figure out how to break left Into the another dihedral and corner. Wiggle up into a small double crack system, then negotiate to the top of the cliff to the bolted anchors.

Bolted line right of Mr. Workman's Crack. Interesting climbing up the face with a few awkward cruxy sections. Stick clipping the first bolt is highly recommended, especially if you are not 5'10".  It is also possible to climb into this route from the start of Workman's Crack.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 3) Workmen's Buttress