Start low on the arete with a good left hand on the arete.   Move up on the arete, lie-back a move or two then trent right up onto the slab to finish.

Problem A

Turtle Dome Crack

Problem B - Alternative Start

Gold

Problem B

Green

A Rubidoux semi-classic! Made famous for its inclusion in one of John Long's old instructional videos (an interesting sequence appeared in the film showing hand jamming technique, somehow shot from within or from the other side of the boulder). This problem is a must-do, and may also be tried as a difficult lieback (rated B1 in the Craig Fry guide). Done the standard way, tight hands lead to one or two perfect jams and then the crack becomes wider than you'd like far too quickly. Most people opt to lieback to the top once it gets wide, although fists and offwidth techniques will also get you there.

Start by leaning rightwards of the large boulder to gain the worse than expected rail. With the rail in hand mantle awkwardly onto it with little for the hands other than the rail.

Precarious with a terrible landing.

Slightly harder than its neighbor "Green," this is a lieback problem on grainy rock. Not horrible and worth doing once if in the area.

Start with hands high and pull onto the face.   Crimp up leftwards, to a committing move up to gain small holds on the slab.

Finish directly up the slab.

Located about 75-100 yards due north from Turtle Dome, this problem doesn't have the best rock, but it does offer some nice movement and finger locks. Follow the right-hand crack that faces northeast.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Turtle Dome