This route heads up the obvious long crack system on the right side of Surprise Rock. Don't let the name disuade you from climbing this route. Other than a few loose flakes at the bottom, the route is quite clean and long.

A few hard moves near the bottom lead to fairly straightforward climbing in the middle of the pitch. However, near the top, where the crack disappears, the climbing is both well protected and challenging.

Dirty Surprise

Flittering Fingers

Grainy Day, Dream Away

Trembling Toes

Called on Account of Grain

The Awe-rete

Eye of Horus

Start left of

Dirty Surprise

and climb steep slab into a scoop and then up a vertical arete, angling slightly left on grainy friction to parallel

Dirty Surprise

to the top. Horribly grainy in spots this one is perhaps best left alone.

Step right off the block atop

The Awe-rete

, then face climb back up and left on a ramp to a steep section. Surmount this steeper bit, then follow the easier, rounded arête up to the

Trembling Toes

anchor.

The is a great route to climb while passing by on the Wonderland trail.

For a bolted line at this grade and height, it can't easily be beat by J-Tree standards. The bolts have all been replaced recently to 3/8" and are spaced well. The rock is a bit loose due to lack of traffic so tread carefully. You'll find the crux to be the final 3 bolts. Enjoy!

Start right of

Trembling Toes

climbing directly up to and through some rounded scoops and then angle left to parallel

Trembling Toes

to the top. A bit grainy but more traffic will help to clean it up.

Climb up along the right arête of the block, moving a bit left when you encounter a horizontal.

To set this up as a TR, scramble in behind the block and chimney up to the large, flat ledge on the top of the block.

This is the obvious west facing splitter that you see as you look east from the main Wonderland wash just before Suprise rock.  The direct is 10d or sneak in from the right at 5.7.  The upper crack is 5.8.

Description

Protection

Routes in Surprise Rock