New route bolted 8/29/18 as a birthday present for Becca. Clip a low first bolt and pull through the crux then head up for some mellower moves to the anchor. For the second pitch traverse left and up some airy 5.8 to the anchors of Low Voltage. This can be lead as one long pitch too.   You could also lead the first pitch and use it as an alternative start to Static Cling 5.10.

Balloon Knot

Road Rage

Crankenstein

[Redacted]

Dark Syndrome

Dirty Deeds (aka Silver Streak)

Tin Tangle

Golden Shower

Low Voltage

Giant's Direct

Do it Again

Giant's Staircase

Static Cling

French's Doughnut

Road Head

Pump-O-Rama

Emerald City

Jackie Chan

Alpha Centauri

China Side

Psoriasis

High Voltage, AKA 'Rhoid Rage

Uncle Rick

Road Kill

Philanthropy

Road Face

Straw Man

The Dark Side (AKA The Siege)

China Syndrome

Yellow Brick Road

This is an alternate start to Giant's Staircase. Climb easy moves with giant holds to either the first belay anchor of Giant's Staircase, and continue up Giant's Staircase to the top, or go up and left onto the ledge with an anchor and rap rings.    This is also the start for Static Cling, 5.10b.

Climb the first two bolts on what is now Road Kill, and then traverse up and left into 4 finishing bolts to an anchor.   Starts with a difficult boulder problem to a decent edge where you can get an ok shake. Then launch into about 25' of sustained 11+ edges to a good hold and easier moves in the top 1/3 of the route.   Stick clipping the 2nd bolt is recommended due to location of bolt due to rock quality.

BSD is the direct start for Road Rage. Rather than starting as for Road Kill, start at the edge of the first built tier, and go straight up into Road Rage to the Road Rage anchors. Thin and sustained crimping until the 4th bolt clipping hold, then about 20' of sustained 11+ edges with only one decent hold to get a quick shake on until about 2/3 up. Then it gets easier to the anchors. Fun and powerful movement through the crux.    I'd recommend stick clipping the 2nd glue in bolt, as it is very hard to clip during the crux.

Crankenstein, like Silver Streak, is also among the better routes at French's.  It's a bit steeper and a lot pumpier but the rock is quite good and skin-friendly, so do a few laps! 

  It's really easy to set up a TR on this route by climbing Silver Streak to the left and then traversing 10ft. over to the anchors of Crankenstein.

A 5-easy route up the face of the Giant's Staircase.

Link-up of the crux start of the Dark Side into the pumpy section of China Syndrome. Extends the DS crux section a few more moves; through the traverse with the new bolt. The jugs on China Syndrome feel a bit worse after pulling the powerful crux of the Dark Side- making the link up a bit harder.

One of the better routes here.  It's relatively steep with lots of small incut holds.  There's a great section of sustained 5.10 climbing between the 2nd and 5th bolts. 

  Due to its moderate grade it sees a fair amount of traffic on busy days.

This route sends solid rock, but the bolt spacings are a little intimidating. At the first bolt, climb up and right, then climb up the right side of the blocky spine.

This is a direct start to the route Yellow Brick Road. Follow 3 bolts up and right to the Yellow Brick Road ledge, then clip 3 more up to the anchors. Clip the first bolt from the ground and head up and right on small, but good holds. At the 3rd bolt top out to the right and avoid the loose rock on the left. Follow Yellow Brick Road to the top doing some laybacking and more pumpy climbing while clipping 3 more bolts and the 5.10 crux of Yellow Brick Road just before the anchors.Last year, I cleaned off Yellow Brick Road and got showered in yellow moss and dirt. While I was rappelling in I noticed this line and thought it’d be a cool line to the top of the dome. No one really climbs Yellow Brick Road, but with this route you can climb part of it with no trad gear. 

Contrived climbing through the first few bolts lead to a distinct crux then slightly easier climbing.  Finishes with some dirty lower angle moves.

A great beginners lead, as there are plenty of bolts and fun climbing. Start at the base of Giant's Staircase, and head directly up. The line ascends up the left side of a prominent blocky rib, just left of Tin Tangle (a slightly run-out 5.7 sport climb). Going up Do It Again and then heading straight up the finish to Giant's Staircase is the most direct way up to the top of the Dome. Someone has placed a bolt above the anchor to protect the moves into the finish. 5 extra bolts if going all the way to the top.

This is the easiest route at French's and provides a nice route to the top of the dome. 

  There are two starts to this route-- the first (listed as #1 in the Portland Rock Climbs book) starts at the far downhill side of the dome and climbs up a ramp/ledge sytem to an anchor.  There's a fine variation that starts just uphill (climber's left) of this and goes up 4 or 5 bolts to the same anchor.  This is listed as #4 in the book (it also says there's no pro, which is incorrect). 

  There are 2 options for the second pitch.  One can traverse way around to the right before going up past a manky anchor to the summit (60m rope required), or go straight up and right through some steeper 5.10 climbing.  Moving around and right is recommended. 

  To descend from the top walk to the uphill side of the dome (nearest the parking lot) to an ancor and do a free rappel down (50m rope is ok).

While this route can be done in two, or even three pitches, it is best done in one clean run to the top. Climb up Giants Direct, and rather than going to the belay anchor, follow the bolts up into a dish. Pull through the top of the dish on a couple thin holds, and then continue up to a small roof. Climb through the small roof on big holds and finish to the top. Rap off descent anchors.

A very interesting and pumpy route that links up a lot of French's harder routes.  The crux move comes in the middle, with an off-balance lock off and high step, but the beginning is powerful and the end of High Voltage is the redpoint crux, containing big moves to decent holds.  The rock is a bit crumbly in spots, but for the most part good when it needs to be, and it will only get better.  There are good shakes too, so use them wisely, because the pump will catch up if you don't.

This route is offers long moves between good holds. The climbing is slightly right of the bolt line. Pumpy and fun!

One of the best routes at the crag.  Steep, sustained, and pumpy as hell.  It's a nice step up in difficulty from Crankenstein due to some smaller holds and fewer rests.

The crux is in the mid-section which thins out quite a bit. The most difficult of the 5.8's at French's. Eases up quite a bit at the top with some big blocky holds. Not much different than Tin Man or Alpha, just more consistent climbing on the dome. Really easy steps to the 4th bolt, then just straight up

Crux at the second bolt. The rest is relatively easy.

 Once up there, take the time to look behind you to enjoy a view of Mount Hood.

Bouldery moves down low lead to a jug. A few long reaches and then a series of crimps takes you toward the the beehive-shaped feature up and right. Jugs to the chains.

Alpha Centauri thins out a bit in the middle section.  Some resources list this as a 5.7, but it's generally considered a 5.8.  Generally considered a good beginner's lead however it can be a bit tricky in that you can't always see the next bolt ahead of you (but they pretty much go straight up, every 8 feet or so).

Climb past the first two bolts of China Syndrome then traverse left to finish on Dark Side, avoiding the cruxes of both routes. Somewhat strenuous climbing at the bottom of China Syndrome quickly turns to 5.10 after the traverse. Long draws on bolts 3 and 4 will help to reduce rope drag. This is a fun, less pumpy alternative to China Syndrome and maybe a good intro to the steeper climbing at French's for the 5.11 climber.

 Given the number of variation routes at French's, I'd be surprised if someone hasn't already done this. If you have any credible FA info please let me know.

A true power-endurance route, Psoriasis lacks the huge "thank god" jugs that appear on other French's Dome routes.  After clipping the third bolt, the business begins and you'll have to get your shakes/rests wherever you can find them!  While the crux is between the fourth and fifth bolts, the route remains pumpy to the anchor. 

  This route has been extensively cleaned, but the friable nature of the rock means that holds occasionally crumble slightly.  Also, any rock to either side of the route should be considered suspect- belayers should probably wear a helmet.  

  Despite the less-than-ideal rock, Psoriasis is a great route with fun, challenging movement.  

One of the most overhung routes at French's (and definitely one of the dirtier ones). BUT: I cleaned it a bunch summer '08 and must say it is really fun! I couldn't figure out how to clip the last bolt, as the route naturally climbs a bit right of it, so I skipped it- clean falls if you miss the victory jug near the anchor.  Enduro, overhanging edges lead to a bouldery finish.  Do it!

This line is just left of the start for Yellow Brick Road, and crosses over it briefly. Somewhat pumpy 11+ climbing gets you to the second to last draw. Make a strenuous clip then enter the bouldery crux, 4 big moves on small crimps. Clip the last draw and don't fall off the good crimps on your way to the anchors.

Take the first two bolts of Road Rage, and then continue straight up for 3 more bolts to the anchor. Hard boulder problem to a good edge, then a few more difficult moves going up and right, to an easier finish. Pretty sustained for the grade.   Stick clipping the 2nd bolt is recommended due to location of bolt due to rock quality.

Philanthropy is a "choose your own adventure route" starting from either Pump O Rama or The Darkside before climbing through 4 new bolts on fun, overhanging, juggy terrain.   

  Starting from Darkside adds a few fierce, sidepull moves after the crux before the headwall. This certainly is more difficult than the original Darkside, but it might not warrant a bump in grade.   

  Starting from Pump O Rama, Philanthropy avoids the P.O.R. crux by veering right after the 4th bolt.  Clip the first new bolt out right and follow jugs up the steep bulge.  Despite huge holds the rest of the way up, the climbing is quite pumpy. This variation makes for a nice 5.11+ addition to the crag.  It might be a touch more difficult than Crankenstein.  See what you think!  

  The route is (surprisingly) as clean and solid as anything at French's.  However, keep in mind that the route is new and the rock may crumble a bit in spots.   

  My fellow, beloved humans- have at it!   

Big moves on small edges for the first half of the route. A great rest about 1/3 way up on a large horn, followed by another at 2/3. The crux comes at the top where opposition movement comes into play. A key jug came off recently making the final moves slightly harder.

A nice low-angle climb protected by good bolts with lots of incut holds.  It gets a lot of sun in the morning but cools off nicely in the afternoon.

The Siege could be considered the test piece of French'es Dome. The business comes early on this route, the first 20 feet contain the crux. Tenuous sidepulls coupled with a few long lockoffs characterize the crux, into an interested match. As you move over the bulge the climbing eases off greatly, so long as your pump doesn't ruin your redpoint.

The only moderate route on this portion of the wall. This route features long reaches between good holds. The climbing eases after the 5th bolt, however the pump crux might throw you. A clipping hold broke near the 5th bolt recently, which has made the clip a bit harder.

This route (although seldom climbed) has much to offer in the single pitch adventure category. The climbing is unique and awkward the whole way. Follow the obvious ramp left placing gear when possible until this ramp moves upward and dissipates. The crux is the last section of face climbing. Anchors are straight up despite seeing an obvious set of anchors out to the left just before the crux.

French's Dome is a lone andesite crag located on the flanks of Mt. Hood near the town of Zig Zag, Oregon. Routes range in height from 80ft. to 160ft., and most are well-bolted. The setting is tranquil, invoking a feeling of solitude in the old-growth forest. Spectacular views of Mt. Hood abound.

 The climbing is sporty, crimpy, and pumpy. Most of the routes feature chains and steel biners on the anchors, however, a couple don't have biners, so don't always plan on them being there.

 Due to heavy snowfall this area is generally a late Spring to early Fall crag. The best hours are in the afternoon when the majority of the climbs are in the shade.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in French's Dome