P1 - Meander up 40' of unprotected slab. A few feet below the limestone band is a 5.8 friction move. Very exciting! Top out the band and walk a few feet left. Continue up another slab reaching a drilled angle. Head straight up above the angle (5.10+) and build a belay off of small cams before the chimney. ~125ft (5.10+R) 

  P2 - Climb an awesome squeeze chimney to varied crack climbing in the corner until you reach an obvious ledge. Walk a few feet left and marvel at the beautiful ring lock/thin hands splitter above. Build a belay off of small cams. ~125ft (5.9+) 

  P3 - Climb the clean splitter to a hands overhang on great rock. Follow the crack which widens to fists through some sandy sections. There is a loose block in the crack. I tried to trundle it but it seems to be in there pretty good. After the loose block climb stellar wide hands and hands out another overhang. Once you are on the ledge, traverse left and take the path of least resistance to the top! ~100ft (5.10)

Tequila Sunrise

Frosted Flakes

Hand of Sceiron

Hand of Sceiron climbs a sweet left leaning crack/chimney system that is obvious from uptown Sedona.  Has a more obscure, old school feeling. The rock quality varies, but is mostly good.    Originally, the first pitch involved some aid right before the belay, but now there is a variation to pitch 1 that goes free.   The original pitch 1 climbs a wide low angle crack to a seam and belays just left of a roof 5.7 A1.     We  started to the left of the original in a crack and traversed right under stepped roofs to a crack in the limestone and a boulder problem above a bolt to the belay ledge, 5.10+, 140 feet.     The second pitch starts with sweet fingers, then angles left and becomes a shallow chimney then a hand and offwidth crack, 5.10, 170 feet.     Pitch three climbs up and left, until you can unrope and walk left, 5.9, 60 feet.

Frosted Flakes is a quality old skool route with one of the best moderate finger cracks in the area. Lots of sun, tuns of fun! 

  Start just west of the Slingshot/Camel's head notch.  

  P1 Slab up to a bolt. A pin and textbook gear lead left to a few bolts. Yard a bolt or two to get onto the ramp. Belay from hands gear wherever looks good. 5.10 A0.   P2 Climb the long steep finger corner past a few bulges. Very excellent! 5.10+.  Belay at rap station on big ledge.   Either rap with 2 ropes or continue adventuring up 3 short pitches of run out 5.9 face to top.

These are the old school lines of the Camel's Head. Expect an adventure and fun wild climbing. Sedona trad at its mediocre finest.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Camel's Head