P1: 5.8. Scramble up to the grassy ledge in the deep gully between Sea of Joy and Dark Side of the Moon formations. On the right side of the grassy ledge start climbing very featured limestone that is splattered with a generous amount of chert. Fun climbing on big holds leads to chain anchors in a small scoop.

P2: 5.10. Continue up on big holds and eventually the climbing gets steeper and the holds smaller. There is a steep white headwall guarding the chain anchors at the top of pitch 2. Fun crux.

Wish You Were Here

Another One Bites the Dust

Cherts So Good

Crazy Diamond

Freebird

Dream Weaver

Golden Years

White Rabbit

Climb steep featured limestone runnels and chert to right leaning crack.  Mostly face climb plus a couple jams until you can stem up a shallow steep corner on exciting chert holds.  At the second to last bolt you can step left to the party ledge and the sport anchors of Don't Fear the Reaper on the Sea of Joy formation or stay on the steep ramp and move up and right past one more bolt to the chain anchors on the first pitch of Wish You Were Here.

This route starts on large party ledge on the right side of Sea of Joy.  From the anchors on the ledge, move right and stem up the dihedral that is the boundary between Sea of Joy and Dark Side of the Moon.  Continue stemming up and over a bulge and pull onto the face with some chert holds.  Follow a left trending line of chert to the anchors.

Climb the first 4 bolts of Creep (5.9) and step left across the prominent black streak and continue up for another 10 bolts of steep chert pinching to the anchors.  Steep and fun with solid chert.

P1: 5.7.  Climb featured grey limestone up runnels and past small ledges to a large ledge with chain anchors which are left of a prominent large bush on the wall.

P2:  5.8.  Continue more or less straight up on featured limestone and chert.  About 1/2 way up there is a move left to gain crack.  Follow the crack back left and then up to the sport anchors at the top of the pitch.

Start in a broken right facing corner and move up to a stance below short blank section of rock.  Using tiny handholds and bad feet move slightly right and up to big hand hold. Pull up to a stance and continue more or less straight up on big chert.  Continue up as the route becomes steeper, the chert smaller and holds more spaced apart.  Pull a second thin crux for the last couple bolts before the anchors.

P1 (5.9) Start 10 feet right of Freebird and climb a steep thin section, then trend left to a ledge just left of a large bush.  Belay at the first anchors of Freebird.

P2 (5.10-) Move up and right following a diagonalling chert line until its possible to make an exciting move left to the edge of a shallow left facing corner.  Make the move left as soon as possible to keep the grade 10- (if you wait the move becomes more like hard 5.10).  Move up from the corner onto large chert holds.  Continue more or less straight up on sometimes thin chert holds.  Pull a headwall and move left to the the top anchors of Freebird.

Note: can be led in one long pitch with 22 quickdraws and some rope management to reduce drag.

This is a long single pitch route up the middle of the Dark Side of the Moon formation.  Start on featured rock and move up to stance below a blank face. The crux is moving up and left into left facing corner.  Follow the corner/arete until it becomes a chert face climb.  Continue on fun but easier climbing to the anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 10. Dark Side of the Moon