Dirty corner system down low leads to a large ledge.  After this the good part of the route starts which is a hand crack supplemented by face features, a crack traverse, then a larger hand crack above.  The upper hand crack section has a massive chock stone that is not coming out anytime soon, which is unfortunate because the climb would be better without it.  I had to tear out a couple of bushes on this climb.  Mostly 5.6 and 5.7 moves with a 5.8 move or two after the traverse.

Diabetics Are Sweet

Bee True

Bloom and Breathe

Choss Wasp

Cache Valley Crack

Parallelogram

The Fall of Mann

Bizarre Garb

Scramble into a clean, splitter fist and hand crack and jam and chimney for a fun 25 feet.  If only it kept on going....  Walk off the route to the right.

Start on some dirty, but easy 4th-5th class climbing for about 30-40 feet to gain the corner where the main fist crack starts.  There is a large chockstone halfway up this first part that you can sling (found some webbing around it, which is why I don't claim the FA). This part is why I gave it the PG-13 rating.  A fall is unlikely, but would be pretty bad as the rock can't accommodate a whole lot of protection.  Once the ledge is gained use the finger/hand crack to bypass some bushes and gain the main fist crack.  Follow the crack up and dodge the bees.

Top out just after the overhang in the crack.  You could probably continue to the top of the cliffs from here, or you can leave some webbing and rap down (a 70 m will barely reach).

The name says it all. I have removed

most

of the choss but the wasps... jayzus christ the wasps!!  This climb is actually a super rad line that reminds me a lot of double cracks in COR. However, it starts above a seep that attracts a lot of wasps in summer and fall before they "hopefully" die off. It starts to the climbers left of the second pitch of Parallelogram. Rather than walking into the large (7 or 8 ft) wide chimney where the second pitch of Parallelogram starts, look to your left where you'll see a plethora of fine looking splitter cracks. Two of them parallel each other nicely up to the top of the cliff. This is Choss Wasp. The double cracks enter into a small (5ft) "chimney" section where you can a get a real nice "shoulder jam". As in you can pull your shoulders back and if they are as wide as mine, hang by your shoulders, let your feet pull, and do a little dance in the air. Walk off or sling a large boulder at the top and rappel.

Thee raddest crack climb in Cache Valley (so marginally decent). Enticing looking buttress with a splitter crack starting halfway up it. The "Cache Valley Crack" curves slightly to the right and tops out right of a small roof. The bottom of the climb is dirty looking face climbing, but it is actually solid  and has decent protection. Gain the first ledge about 20 ft. up, place a "solid" piece in one of  two nice cracks then shoot up to the second ledge and the start of the Cache Valley Crack. Shake out for a second and then start up the crack. The crack goes from tips (the crux) to a perfect hand crack (seriously fun stuff).  Place your first piece of gear in the crack as high as you can. It would be pretty to easy to deck on the ledge if you blow it early on with the crack...so don't blow it! There are a few "hidden" face holds to the left of the crack early on that make this climb a 5.9+ rather than a harder 10. However, you never really move out of the crack when using these holds. This compares to a Little Cottonwood Canyon 5.9+ so ya it's probably a bit sandbagged if you're not from around these parts hehe.

Due to water seepage you have to start out on the right side on dry rock and traverse into the cracks .(crux?)  A #4 camalot protects the traverse well.  Then take the sweet double cracks to the top.  Various short bulges with good rests in between.  You may encounter some moss and other foliage along the way.

First 30' are chossy rock that is potentially unstable. Obtain a vertical crack underneath small roof, climb 5 feet and traverse left and over the small roof, lie backing a finger crack and smearing on lichen. Pull up onto a 3 ft. ledge and breath for a second. Then climbing a jagged hand crack 15 to the summit. Set up a top anchor on chock stone in a large crack to the right  and a fixed pin under a boulder 10' ft north of the top. Be careful, there is a refrigerator sized chunk of rock right on the upper east most tip of the cliff. Do not place gear for an anchor in the vertical crack that separates this death block from the main cliff face. Rappel off of slung horn at the top of Bee True. 70m required.

Thin seam with good pro and sequential face features to large ledge to stemming chimney moves over a bulgy crack feature up top.  Bouldery start, with a 5.10a move, otherwise mostly 5.9 moves.   Fun route!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Smithfield Dry Canyon