The crux is in the middle of the face.  This is one of the best routes at Luna Park.

Right

Giant Leap

Face  1

Slot  1

Space Race

Houston, We Have a Problem

Slot  2

Pit Toilet Viper

Face  2

Face  3

Left

Crux is in the middle of the route, going through softer rock and turning a small bulge.  Well-protected

A very sustained, powerful climb on the left side of the slot at the Full Moon Wall area.  This was bolted and climbed in 2016, Luna Park's first 5.12

The crux is the bulge just above the middle ledge.

A fun route, climb the edges and pockets on a less steep face.  Wish the pitch was longer.

Caution: This route is brand new and still needs a bit of cleaning. Watch for loose rock and be extremely careful with the 3'x2' block pasted on the wall about 3/4 of the way up. The block seems solid, and used to have another 1200lb block sitting on it that we trundled, but it's still hollow and could kill someone if it came off. We'll either pry it off later or reinforce it with epoxy. 

  Luna gets its first 12a! By far the proudest line in the park with a wide array of technical, pumpy, and thought provoking climbing on slightly overhanging rock. Consistently challenging from bottom to top. 

  Strenuous climbing up a thin seam past three bolts using some pockets, but mostly finger stacks and lie backs, to the top of a column of rock (20', hard 5.10/11-); then ascend the large scoop/ramp to the first fixed draw, where the first crux begins, work up into the wide flaring crack by stemming to clip the second fixed draw and use the chock stone (or a fist jam when the chock finally pops out) to pull through the lower crux (20', hard 5.11, very technical crack climbing); then stem your way up as far as possible using side pulls on the left side of the 3 foot wide crack to the large, 3'x2' pasted on block (25', 5.10, use caution with the block); take a good rest at the block and prepare to fire the slightly overhanging pocket pulling upper crux to the chains (20', 5.12a). 

  Depending on where you commit to the face on the upper section, the grade will vary. The higher you stem and the further right you go on the face, the easier.

The crux moves are out of the scalloped ribs.

Start either in the large scoop to the right of the right- leaning, crack or start directly in the crack. After getting through the overhang, head up the short section of lie-back to a ledge, then face climbing with pockets and crimpers to the top.

A really nice route on good rock. The crux is above the middle ledge.

The crux is at the top or the route.  Needs traffic.

The route is sustained but has two separate cruxes generally below the two ledges on the climb.

This area is downhill of the outhouse and faces south.  It is especially good for morning and later afternoon climbing. 

  Pit Toilet Viper:  5.9 (**)   Space Race:  5.12a (***) 

  Climbs (from left to right--names unknown--thanks Mark Thomas et. al.): 

  Extreme left:  5.10+/5.11-, bolts (**) crux both above and below the ledge on the climb. 

  Slot (right side) left:  5.9+/5.10-. bolts (***)   Slot (just right of above) right:  5.9-/5.9, bolts (**) 

  Face left:  5.8+, bolts (**)   Face center:  5.8, bolts (***)   Face right:  5.8, bolts (*) needs traffic 

  Houston, we have a problem:  5.9/5.9+, bolts (**) 

  Extreme right:  5.10-/5.10, bolts (***) longer climb, starts in the black rock at the bottom of the arroyo.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Full Moon Wall