Interesting climbing but not sustained in difficulty, and too short. 

  Angle up right toward right end of roof. Up a bit, then traverse Right under vertical crack. Finish up right side of crack. 

  . . Variation (harder + less fun): Instead of traversing right, continue more up, then step right to crack. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2017. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Diagonal Venture

Corner Roof Venture

Johnny Get Your Tape

Springboard

Left Face Venture

Murphy's Law

Dave + Fred's Rainy Day Adventure

Dave + Jon's Excellent Adventure

Interesting fun moves with variety -- but too short. 

  Up the corner to roof. Work up around left side of roof. Step left to tree. Up L side of small corner. Stop when get hands on horizontal ledge -- because getting all the way to top of cliff is much harder. 

  . . Variation "Durs McClimb": Just after getting past roof, instead of going left to tree, go straight up between the two small corners (5.8) - (FA Stephen Bittner).    . . Harder more interesting finish to the Variation: Somewhat below top of cliff, traverse Right five ft then up (5.9) 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2017. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Sustained Interesting face climbing (on holds often sharp). The opening sequence is much harder than the rest of the good stuff, so if having trouble with it, just get hauled up yarding through it to enjoy the remainder.  

  Big move to get up to the good hold. Next angle left a bit, then roughly straight to the top. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).

Sustained interesting face climbing around 5.10 a/b -- but one short sequence much harder. Worthwhile to plan to "yard through" the crux below the high horizontal ledge, save energy to enjoy all those other good moves below and above it. 

  Up a bit right of small tree, and keep trending a bit right up to high horizontal ledge. Perhaps another step right, the up and left to the top.   . . Variation? Some climbers say they can make it all the way free if they traverse a ways left when they reach the crux sequence below the high horizontal ledge. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).

Face climbing fairly sustained at the grade as far as it goes -- which is too short. 

  Roughly straight up to left side of tree. Just below top, step left to above other tree, and finish through weakness (or just stop before stepping left).   . . Thick horizontal root of tree is on, but its trunk is not.    . . Upper crack above tree is not on (because it's on the next climb R). 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2017. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Sustained interesting face climbing. 

  Start on the dark water streak, then keep trending a bit left. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).

Sequence off the ground is much harder than anything else on this route. Perhaps can be done free at 5.10 difficulty. But then anybody who can get that short sequence without aid will be bored by the remainder.  

  So this route is likely to be more fun for a less-strong climber if the Leader or the organizer of the Top-Roping can get set up some Aid for stepping up with their feet on the first couple of moves (say like an etrier / aid-ladder hanging down off a couple of pieces of Trad protection) -- or perhaps just have another member of party form a temporary foothold by standing under the starting overhang with low hands clasped together. After that the climber is free to haul up through the face above on buckets (some might say 5.4), then some variety of challenge when they reach the slab above (maybe one of the moves on it gets up to 5.6 difficulty?). 

  . . (The First Ascent party climbed this all free many years ago, and their ascent has been recorded with a much easier difficulty grade. Perhaps a key hold broke off since then). 

  Somehow get established up in the dihedral - (perhaps 5.10 if done Free, much easier with clever Aid). Then follow the fun jugs up to a non-steep slab. Turn left and up slab (second crux, might feel like 5.6?) to the top. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).

"D J E A" is not everybody's idea of a fun crack climb. But if you want a range of interesting outdoor climbing challenges, here it is.

 Crux sequence low in the crack is much harder than anything else in the climb. Much of the crack above that can be climbed without jamming technique. Sideways transition to upper section is either thoughtful outdoor challenge, or just awkward, depending on your taste. Upper crack section is: flaring, off-width, and short. The last hardish move near the top can involve the wide/flaring crack on the left with a crimpy sidepull out right. A bit of a spicy ending when wet.

 Up the longer lower section of the crack, then shift left to finish up the short upper section.

 warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).

Lots of interesting steep face climbing, and an obvious crack.    . . (The acronym for the obvious crack gives the name to this sector). 

  . . Problem for several of the routes is a short crux much harder than the remainder. So if goal is enjoyment of lots of good moves, rather than purity of completion, arrive prepared with a method for "cheating" through those cruxes - (on top-rope usually it's sufficent to "yard" through it by the climber pulling on the belayer's strand of the rope). 

  . . On the left (NW) side of the Yankee Ramparts East area. 

  Top-Rope: Access to top of cliff by scrambling up around left side. Tree and rocks can be used as natural anchors with static line or long slings. 

warning: The rock around this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 6. D J E A