1. Climb up cracks, then trend up and right to a ledge system and an old two-bolt anchor beneath a long vertical crack (5.6, 180').

2. Clip an old pin in the crack above, then angle up and left into the middle of the steeper face. Climb straight up past two bolts, then run it out to a ledge. (5.9+R, 120').

3. Continue straight up on easier terrain, then step right to another pair of older bolts (5.7, 80').

4. Angle up and left into the middle of the face, then straight up, with occasional gear. Belay after 180', under a Cadillac size, two-foot thick, V-shaped flake. This is somewhat below, and 80 feet left of, a prominent left-facing dihedral with a large lone tree. You will be directly under a large dead tree at the top of the cliff.   (5.8R, 180').

5. Layback up and left around the V-shaped flake, then gain a small ledge and left-facing dihedral/flake. Up this, then run it out up a nice rippled face to a small ledge and two-bolt anchor. (5.8R, 180').

6. Continue straight up on never-ending dike ripples, passing occasional flakes for gear, and belay at a fat right-facing flake, just before the angle eases, just as the rope runs out (5.8R, 205')

7. Continue to the top (190', 5.7)

Scenic Traction

Regular Route

Memorial Route (aka Caudill Queen King Route *original name*)

Slippery Slope

Can be pitched out however you want. I've done it in 10 pitches and I've also done it in 6 with a 70m rope to it's full capacity on every pitch.

The crux comes on the 6th and 7th pitches which in my opinion both go at 5.8+.  Take plenty of quickdraws because the crux is slabby, but the bolts are quite close together at the hard parts.  On some of the easier pitches there is decent runout.  All bolted anchors.  Comes really close to the regular route at pitch 5 or so.

Additional user submitted route info:

Some more info on the pitches 1-5.7, 2-4th, 3-5.4, 4-5.7,5-5.8, 6-5.8+, 7-5.8, 8-5.7 (5.9 if you follow the bolt line over the roof and do not go left)

Friction slab at its best.  The crux sections are bolted very well but a light rack to 1 inch helps in  between.  Poor pro and few bolts lead to some interesting run-outs on a couple of the easy pitches.  Overall a phenomenal route.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Slick Rock