Upper extension of "Big Weenie" 

  Shallow groove to large protection placement. 

  Top out or rap off tree.

Lorain's

Thor's Hammer

Magic Wand

Excalibur

Four Horsemen

Big Weenie

Indian Drug Carpet

Pulls over and left around a roof at the first bolt.  Then head straight up on face holds to the anchor at a ledge halfway up the cliff.  Good rock.

Start left of Big Weenie on the ledge.  Make powerful moves up and slightly right into the nice undercling.  Then more hard moves over the bulge.  Delicate, though easier, climbing waits above. 

  Finishes about 15 feet up and left of Big Weenie, so it would be easy to continue up from that to set up a TR if no one in your party is up to leading it.

Face climbing through the first roof, pulling left through the second roof.  Then up on more vertical face climbing.  Watch the last big pocket, it stays wet for awhile.  Good rock, except before the first bolt, which is a little crumbly.

A squeeze job to the left of Indian Drug Carpet. Start on chossy jugs as most Weenie Wall routes do with a brown bolt hanger, then enter a series of techie balance moves to an abrupt crux beneath the roof. The rest of the clips are glue-ins.

Find the good jugs and feet and gun for a sloping ledge and side-pull through the cave. Execute a short boulder problem that gets you on the blunt arete proper. Enjoy jugs, crimps, pockets, and pinches that flow through continuous climbing to ever shrinking hidden holds up the arete and eventually to the grey left face. Finish up left of the final bolt through a large block layback and some slab at the tippy top. Super long and fun climbing on nice holds. If you stray into white questionable rock you're probably off-route. 

Face climb to the roof, aiming for the 2 foot long undercling.  Then continue up on steep sustained face climbing along the thin seam on the left.  Good rock.

The farthest buttress right, just left of the right/east walkdown, as seen from the water.

Description

Protection

Routes in Weenie Buttress