Go to the

South Ridge

of the South Pinnacle and wank around to the West Face.  About 3 meters left of the

South Ridge

, there is a steel, flat face of rock.  If you back up, you can see where this vertical-to-overhung face will go up a narrow, flat rib to a false summit.  Face climb just left of a shallow, junky corner to get off the ground and continue up on in-cuts and jugs on vertical terrain to a slightly overhanging face finish on large in-cut holds.  This is the best climbing I found on this formation.

West Face of the South Summit

Owl Perch

South Ridge

North Ridge

Start climbing a little left until you reach the small crack about 20 feet up, which is the crux. Follow the crack to the right until you come out on top of a small bush. Keep climbing right of the bush until the rock starts to get really shaky- then head over to the arete on your left. You can cheat and use the left side, or make it more challenging and stay more on the right.

The rock sucks here. However, there is a line of fairly solid rock if you follow it the right way.

Begin on the south face of the ridge. Climb blocky steps to emerge on the ridge at a small tree. Continue along the ridge with exciting exposure to the summit. To descend, either downclimb the route or rap from either of the 2 good trees on the summit ridge.

It's too bad that this route was put in the book, as its inclusion increases the odds that someone will feel compelled to do it to "tick" the route.  Save for that, it has little to recommend it.  Climb up the North end of the rock that can be seen from the Gregory Canyon trail, following whatever solid spots you can find and compromising on piles of choss between.  The summit is nice, and you can go down via the

South Ridge

, which is much nicer.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in South Amphitheater Pinnacle